Blisstime 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut and 6pcs Guitar Bone Bridge Pins Made of Real Bone

I purchased this bone set (saddle, pins, and nut) from Blisstime for under $15 to replace what I assume to be plastic counterparts on my Takamine G340 acoustic that was Crafted in China. I picked this guitar up really cheap at an auction a few years ago because I didn't have an acoustics being that I just play electrics - Strats and Teles are my main pieces of wood, along with a few Gibsons (an LP and SG), Epis (90's Sheraton that's totally cherry and an SG), 90's Jackson Soloist, an Ibanez or two, and a few others. Hey, I like guitars - and tube amps (way too many to list - friends and family think I'm nuts, but I tell them, only the drummers are nuts - hehehe)....I do have my eyes on a few different Martins and Taylors - but will hold off for now. Addictions are a bad thing.The quality of the parts appear pretty good from what I can tell. Initially, I thought the pins were plastic when I first picked them up, but upon holding them in my hand and giving a little shake of the dice, I could hear good clarity with the jingle they made, as compared to the lifeless clinking the original plastic pins made. Lightly dropping the nut and saddle on my tile countertop sounded similar to other bone (and even TUSQ) nuts I've installed before...I dropped them less than an inch to hear them, so no crazy height going on to prevent any damage.Surprisingly, the compensated saddle dropped right in, fitting nice and snug with no sanding necessary as the height was identical to the original. The pins were pretty close to the originals, sitting a little higher in the bridge, but I'd imagine over time, they will settle in as things wear down. I think it's Martin that may have the pins a little larger knowing that they will settle over the years...I lost track of time, but I would guess it took me about a half an hour to sand and adjust the nut for proper fitting and first fret string height. Sanding the width size down took the most time. I initially used 600 grit sandpaper, but then went down to 400 grit to speed up the process being that I didn't know how soft/hard the bone was to begin with. I didn't glue it in yet being that I will make some minor adjustments over the course of the current string's life, totally square it flush in the slot, and intend to pass it a few times with 1000/1200/2000/etc grit sandpaper to polish it up prior to lightly gluing it in place when I change the strings again in a few weeks or so depending on how much I play it.I had just changed the strings this past week after cleaning the guitar, lightly buffing the frets with 0000 steel wool (I apply blue painters tape over the fretboard, just exposing the frets), and oiling the fretboard...MusicNomad F-One Oil works really good for me, btw. And it's made in the U.S.A. I need to write a review for that stuff next.....another side note, the strings I used this time were Ernie Ball Earthwood Light - GC had them crazy cheap a while back so I stocked up on Light and Medium Light - be sure to buy strings near major holidays to save your hard earned $$$ - pro tip. ;)Comparing the sound before and after, I would have to say it sounds a little brighter, yet less tinny, and the lower/wound strings sound a little beefier and more vibrant as they were pushing the air if I had to say. The biggest thing I noticed was the 12 fret harmonics really rang nicely. Actually, all of the harmonics did, especially with the wound strings where it was lacking before. I also noticed that going past the 10-12th frets, the notes sounded more lively and clear where the plastic counterparts sounded kinda lifeless.Overall, I am really happy with the results. I would purchase this kit again for any future guitar I might pick up that has plastic parts. With that being said, I might order the ebony bridge pins to compare them to these bone ones.

I didn’t know such a thing existed until I had to get new strings for my guitar and while I was doing research on YouTube about different guitar strings and how they can effect the sound I came across the bone nut/bridge pin and saddle upgrade. I didn’t know what these things were called, now I know.I made the upgrade to an old cheap Johnson acoustic guitar and what a HUGE difference it made. I was getting ready to sell this guitar and use my new guitar, and some how this sounds better than my new guitar LOL. I’m ordering a second set to upgrade my new guitar.The Johnson allowed me to upgrade the Nut and Saddle but the bridge pins were too big, I blame the guitar for that, I think I tried replacing the pins in the past and had the same problem. My new fender CD-60SCE should at the very least let me change the bridge pins and saddle, I’ll mess with the nut another day. Im gonna put some elixr nanoweb strings on the fender but I do have the polyweb strings on the Johnson for a more warm sound.Im a big fan. I think this upgrade, with a bridge lowering, and neck setup with the tremelo bar thing whatever it’s called can turn any guitar into a nice sounding guitar.Highly recommended. And it’s cheap!Some people say this is plastic but it’s not even close. I tested dropping my plastic parts on a desk compared to these and these are definitely bone and not plastic, they have a totally different sound than plastic. Considering tusq or other types of bone bridge kits cost 100-200$, for 13$ this is a HUGE score.

What a fantastic sound this brings... wonderful volume, sustain and tone. Truly a worthy upgrade for any guitar that doesn't have bone nut, saddle and pins. Highly recommend and you will not be disappointed... a huge improvement for a small investment.

I purchased this kit to replace the nut and saddle on an 10 yr old Alvarez AD70sc acoustic guitar because i was getting fret noise on the high E string due to excessive nut wear. Watched a few videos and dug in. I used 120 grit sandpaper to sand down the saddle and nut. Going slowly and checking fitment often. The bone sands really nicely.After matching the size on the saddle, I left a bit of room on the nut so that i could cut the grooves on the nut with some cheap finishing files from Harbor Freight. This worked well as i could lower the action on the lower strings to match that of the action on the high E string.The pins were too big for the holes on my bridge. I was able to sand them down and make them work.While the saddle is compensated on the upper strings, it's just tapered on the lower. The result is some intonation issues on the low E string even at the 3rd fret.If you're expecting a transformation in tone from the original Tusq saddle and nut, you'll be disappointed. I preferred the brighter tone from the old saddle, nut and pins. This might differ if you're replacing a plastic nut and saddle.All in all, it's a good price on a quality set. Perhaps i was just expecting more of a tonal difference.