10pcs Diamond Knife Sharpening Stones sets with aluminum blank diamond plates Kit for RUIXIN PRO RX008 Knife sharpener

These are good for sharpening kitchen knives

I’ve been using this 10-piece diamond knife sharpening stone set with aluminum blanks (80 grit to 3000 grit), and overall it is a solid value for the money. The full range of grits covers basic to fine sharpening needs, but for me, the standout stones are the 400, 500, 600, and 800 grit plates, which I consider the most practical and frequently used for daily knife maintenance. The stones are consistent in grit and durable, and the aluminum backing provides a stable, flat surface for sharpening with zero flex or bowing that many of the plastic backing plate stones experience. While not premium resin grade, this set is made by "SY Tools" (The brand name can be seen in the product video) and they performs reliably for hobbyists and home cooks who want a versatile sharpening solution without investing in multiple individual stones. I have other diamond stones manufactured by "SY Tools" for sharpening in my garage and they have become some of my favorite go-to stones. I expect these will too. Overall, this set is practical, dependable, and especially valuable for its mid-range grits that will do all the heavy lifting in sharpening, which I find essential for maintaining sharp, precise edges.

Great, just what I was looking for. Thank you.

Ok - you get a fair few for the price and they will work. But - the plastic forms aren’t all flat some are bowed ever so slightly, and the diamond plates are recessed, a couple to the point where I have had to cut them back as the plastic was rubbing the edge not the plate. The actual diamond plates are fair for the money unless you want all to work, I have two that are kinda bad the rest acceptable. So…. Ok I guess - will do the job. There are better.

The best diamond plate set out there dollar for dollar. The value here is incredible, grit contamination is very low as seen under a microscope and in the scratch pattern of the edge, there is little to none (about as good as any plates out there when it comes to diamond size consistency) ide rate this as consistent as my atoma plate but faster wearing however thats to be expected as the whole set of 10 is HALF of what one atoma plate costs. The 80 grit is stupid aggressive and great if you want to hog steel off very quickly but to much for all but the biggest of reprofile jobs or heavy damage correction as it just cuts super deep gouges in the edge bevel. So I would warn others to not start out on most sharpening jobs with the 80 as it's only viable for serious steel removal and because the nickel electroplated bonding on these stones isn't the greatest (not bad and for the money it's great) so the super large diamond particles in the 80 will get knocked off fairly quickly (as with all extremely course diamond plates this happens however like an atoma 140 holds up a lot longer but again they are 65 per plate) so use it sparingly so you have that extremely aggressive plate when you need one. The 200 is plenty fast cutting enough for reprofile work and light to med edge damage correction. These stones are very VERY diamond rich there is a ton of diamond on these stones, much more than like on your DMT, Sharpal, Ultra sharp plates etc so they are extremely fast cutting in all grits as a result. The grit progression is true to grit rating and each stone even the 400, 500, 600 all have distinct scratch pattern differences and every stone is fairly close to your typical JIS grit rating, the 600 is a very close to what I would expect from a 600 grit stone in scratch pattern as is all the other stones, polishing starts at 1500 just as it should. If anything is off in grit I would say if anything the 3k is slightly below like a chosera 3k but finer than say a Kuromaku 2k ide say it's actually more like 2700 but close enough. Now back to the Nickel bonding, this is not a deep nickel bond so if you are using a lot of pressure you will quickly break the diamond out of the bonding, this is not really a problem considering if you are using much pressure at all then you shouldn't be. These stones have plenty of diamond so light pressure is plenty to cut very very quickly. Now as the store wears and the diamond break down you will have to use a little more pressure after a bunch of uses but that's again the case with all diamond plates. Use light pressure, your edge quality will be better, you won't be removing far more steel than you need to and the stones still cut plenty fast and you won't be wear the plates at a accelerated rate. Overall these stones are a tremendous value in diamond plates that are capable of leaving you very very good edge quality and lasting you a long time the secret to the edge quality and long living plates is simply use light pressure. Use windex instead of water or water and dish soap, windex really does a great job of suspending the steel particles and floating them away keeping the plates from loading up and slowing cutting just make sure you let them dry in moving air before you store them as you do not want to store them until fully dry as it will cause corrision and that kills diamond plates let them fully dry and you will be good. Next thing these plates as all diamond plates have a break in period, some of the diamond particles that are loose or not deeply set in the nickel during electroplating will break off during the first use or two this is ALL DIAMOND PLATES so my suggestion is to sharpen a cheap knife or two to break in the plates before using them on nicer knives and the reason is would be because those loose particles that break off will absolutely scratch up your blade above the bevel. There's two ways to break in a diamond plate, one is simply by sharpening a knife or two and it will be good to go OR if you want to get straight to sharpening and not worry about break in you can simply take a typical whetstone or naguara ( water stones/any stone with a fairly soft binder) and make a few swirls around the stone (like you are flattening the water stone) and that will remove any of those looser particles and the plate will be broke in and ready to go. Personally I just take a old worn out soft ark and make a few swirls around if and they are ready to go. It doesn't take long to break them in literally a few swirls and they are ready as the pieces that aren't bound good are good to come off almost instantly. I can't speak highly enough of this set of plates for the money. Sure they are cheap quality China made plates BUT they are well done cheap China plates as where most of the China diamond plates are pretty much garbage these are actually well done and a massive value. I mean you will spend the same on a plastic base set of these Ruixin ten piece set that will wear out in no time, have terrible grit contamination and plastic backing plates that are never straight and will absolutely throw in convexing in the edge bevel as they are almost always bent to some extent (dished as they are lower in the center than at the ends so even if it's just a little bit it will absolutely convex your edge) and just overall very poor quality but will be priced around 35-40 for a 10pc set and just no where remotely close to as good as these plates. As a professional free hand sharpener that also does fixed angle at a professional level I can absolutely say that these plates are totally capable of professional quality edges and the plates won't limit the edge quality your skill will. If your skill is at a professional level then these plates will provide professional quality results. If you are wanting to do mirror edges you can get this set and 4 strops with 9, 5, 3, 1 micron diamond or cbn emulsion and you will easily be able to go from the 3k to a full mirror with that strop progression with about 10 passes per side on each of the 4 strops now that wouldn't be the best way to do It but you could easily do the but the edge is gonna loose some bite if done that way. If you want to do a mirror right and keep bite then you would come off the 3k plate and go to something like a 5k or 3/2 micron resin bonded diamond stone and then you will have a full mirror off the stone, make a few passes on a half or a tenth micron diamond strop and you will have a perfect mirror. 34 bucks for this set plus about 60 for the resin bonded diamond stone and a strop and emulsion and you capable of doing high quality mirror finishes for about 120-130 bucks in total for the abrasives... That's impressive. These plates will sharpen any steel out there with ease... 72hrc rex121? Not a problem! Poly tungsten carbide?? Not a problem... Maxamet??? Child's play (if it will sharpen rex121 it will sharpen ANY steel and of course it will sharpen/cut any steel it's diamond) so you never have to worry about will your stones handle this or that steel.. These plates will handle the hardest steels with the highest percentages of V and T carbides with absolutely zero problems. Now I will say I wouldn't use these plates to sharpen softer carbons or soft simple stainless alloys and the reason is not what you think. Softer alloys be it carbon or stainless will cause the plates to really dig in to those steels and will absolutely accelerate the wear of your plates. The diamond biting in the steel much harder and deeper on the soft stuff will cause more diamond to be broken out of irs nickel binding and wear your plates much faster. It's not that you can't do it but if you do just expect faster plate wear. If you do use them on softer steels like that then you will want to use as light of pressure as possible to limit the diamond from just digging in to that soft steel and not using the courser girts if you do. Say you are sharpening like 4116 Krupp steel at 55-56 Rockwell I wouldn't use less than the 500 on that steel as the larger diamonds are really gonna bite in to that steel and your going to pull some of them out the nickel bond. At 500+ the particles are small enough that they can't bite super deep in to the steel and be ripped out the nickel and even the 500 is going to cut a low wear resistance and soft steel like that very quickly. If your working with steels that are 60 and up then the steel starts to be hard enough that the plates want to skate across the steel rather than bit and dig in the steel and you want the plates to skate over the steel not dig in that way you control the bit with a little pressure rather than with the soft stuff the sharp diamond even with hardly any pressure just digs straight in to that steel like irs play dough. It's soft steels that are the problem, it doesn't have to be high carbide volume highly engineered steel compositions to use these stones it's just the hardness that matters. Like take for example Aogami blue it's a very simple and pure carbon steel and if it was ran at say 57rc the diamond would dig in and I wouldn't use these on that but if the aogami blue steel was at say 60 to 64 these would work beautiful on it. You will know instantly if the steel is to soft and you should use something else. If you make a pass and the diamond just digs in and you feel it digging in hard with just the pressure from the weight of the stone and stone holder then I wouldn't use these because it's to soft. If you make a pass over the steel with just the pressure from the weight of the plate and stone holder/arm and it doesn't just dig in to the steel then you are good to go. Personally I say anything less than 59rc is to soft for diamond plates as it's going to dig in and it's going to pull diamond off that shouldn't be taken off. 59 to 60 and up is perfect where diamond plates start working the best for you and below 59 use a different abrasive unless it's on steels that are higher in carbide volume but ran softer like say s35vn for example it's its at 58-59 the increased wear resistance of the steel due to carbides will help keep the diamond from digging in to some extent even tho it's not ideal it will work. Most China done s35vn will be 58-59rc so if your sharpening a steel like that then just make sure you use very light pressure to keep it from digging in. China done m390 would be another that's ran way softer than it should be. Just let the plates do the talking and they will tell you what they want by feel and sound. If it's to soft and they dig in just use a different abrasive and if you only have these then just use very very light pressure and don't go to the lower grits.