NuwavePro Chef Induction Cooktop, NSF-Certified, Commercial-Grade, Portable, Powerful 1800W, Large 8” Heating Coil, 94 Temp Settings 100°F - 575°F in 5°F, Shatter-Proof Ceramic Glass Surface

I've been using a butane camping stove in my RV, and after it was stolen I decided to try this to see if it is feasible option than having a dangerous gas stove.Before this purchase I tried a Waring Professional two-burner with a 500W small burner and a 1300W large burner. My test with it was that no matter whether I had it turned high or low on the small burner, it still used the full 500W as opposed to less wattage when it was turned down low. For comparison sake, It took 30 minutes with the small burner to get the water simmering.Alternately, this NuWave Pro induction hot plate uses less watts if you turn it down, and more watts if you turn it up. Below are some experiments that I conducted to test how much it would do with how little time or watts.Theoretically the lowest setting is 900W, and I used this lowest setting for all the experiments. Note that this is the Commercial NSF version as compared to the non-commercial home version that has the lowest setting at 500W. So the range of the 900W setting starts with 100W when it is on low (100-F); Medium-low runs at about 650W (175-F); Medium runs at about 1000W (275-F), and I did not test Medium-high, High, nor the Max/sear settings because it accomplished what I needed at these lower settings.I used two cast iron enameled pots -- one about a gallon, and the small one is about 3 cups.Test #1:Large pot, 2 cups of water, Low 900W setting, used about 1000W consumption when set at Medium/ 275 degrees F, 5 minutes. Result - water was simmering.Test #2:Large pot, 2 cups of water, Low 900W setting, used about 650W consumption when set at Medium/low 175 degrees. Result - the water was tepid, hot enough to wash face and hands with.Test #3:Same large pot of 2 cups tepid water, Low 900W setting, turned it down to custom 120 degrees F and added five more minutes. Used about 400W of power bouncing between 50W, 250W, 550W, 700W. Result - water got scalding hot -- too hot to put your hands into, but not quite simmering.Test #4:Large pot with 1 qt (4-cups) of water, Low 900W setting, Medium temp 275-F, three minutes, power consumption rate about 1050W. Result - water very hot, almost simmering, good enough for washing/ rinsing/ sanitizing dishes.Test #5:Small pot with 1-1/2 cups of water, Low 900W setting, Medium temp 275-F, three minutes, power consumption rate about 1030W. Result - water very hot, hot enough to make tea but needs to cool before drinking.///Although I love this induction cooktop, there are a few oddities worth noting as a matter of fact.- Note that on the bottom of the unit it is rated NSF (for restaurant/ commercial applications), and also even states "COMMERCIAL AND HOUSEHOLD USE" but this is contradicted in the Owner's Manual where it states on page 10, lines 6 & 7 - "This appliance is not intended for commercial use. "This appliance is for houehold use only . . ." Note that the cover of the manual is specific for this professional appliance.- The other odd thing is that I read the entire manual specifically looking to see if it could be used on a plastic picnic table or wood carving block, etc. and it is completely silent on the issue. I know that many hotplates and slow cookers get hot enough on the bottom that they cannot be used on such surfaces without some kind of stone or fireproof trivet. I was a little peeved that they did not address the issue. Then I looked again at the bottom, and it is completely plastic that would melt if heat came out of the bottom, so apparently it is safe on any surface presumably due to the electro-magnetic field directing the heat upward only. It would have been nice for them to say so.In conclusion, I am not going to purchase another butane or LP gas burner unit (well maybe for backup), but I am going to use this exclusively as the primary cooking appliance (and my microwave).My system:I have a 7KwH 24V battery and a 2000W inverter with about 400W of solar power. I use a little more power than those solar panels produce, and run a 2000W gas generator for one to two hours per day to make up the difference. I have to be conservative with my electricity usage (run my frig/ freezer two times a day for 4 hours), but this cooktop will work perfectly in my RV setup.I would suggest this unit over the non-commercial unit for everyone -- for home, RV, and pro.

I have had NuWave induction cooktops since 2014. The first two I purchased were the Titanium 1800 watt models with the soft tactile buttons, which wore out rendering the units worthless. I tried other brands, in the interim, but they did not offer the precision that I get from NuWave, often having a 50F degree difference from the input temperature and the result, which did not bode well for some recipes. When NuWave introduced the Pro series, I bought one to see if it was as good as the original ones I had, and I can say that they are BETTER. IN fact, these have to be the very best induction cooktops out there, surpassing commercial kitchen models, with the exception of the 240 volt commercial models. So, I ordered my fourth NuWave 1800 watt cooktop. I no longer use my gas cooktop anymore, relying solely on induction. I love the precision I get with induction and the way that the kitchen does not heat up while cooking, like I did with the gas cooktop heating the air around the pan, then heating all of the pan, the pan handle, the top of the stove, the wall behind the stove, the hood over the stove, and me. Induction heats the bottom of the pan, and sides, if it is cast iron or steel. The rest of the kitchen stays cool.My only complaint is the touch sensitive controls. Those things are too sensitive. In fact, they are more sensitive than my ex mother-in-law. The slightest awkward glance at the controls will do strange things, like set a temp, turn on the unit, turn off the unit, etc. There is a lock function to lock the temp but it does not lock the unit off. One should unplug the unit if not using it or you might do like I did and heat up a random fork, or knife left on the cooktop...yep, 2nd degree burn when I knew better than to pick up the utensil after turning off the accidentally turned-on hotplate. I know better now. To be fair, the controls are computer controlled and computers follow instructions, not intentions. It thinks I triggered certain buttons, so it is going to follow the instructions and do what that triggered-button called for. It is my fault if I unintentionally triggered it. I cant fault the device.Go ahead. Stop looking. This is the one you need. Make sure you have the power capacity 15A or 20A circuit for it. It is hungry. It does its job well. Ensure you have decent induction-ready cookware. Don't go cheap. Get good cookware or you will regret the results. Invest in proper cookware with high carbon steel or stainless content or enameled cast iron. It will last forever and you will get better results. If someone is complaining about these units, it is because they are using cheap, disposable cookware that should be never have been manufactured. Go big, or go home.