OVERTUREPETG Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200 x 200 mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (6 Color (6-Pack))

I purchased this filament on sale for $37 for a two pack to print the Hydroponics tower that you see. It was almost plug and play and made good prints on one of my two printers right outta the box. Needed to increase fan speed. I Had to tune default retraction settings, and hot end temp, to prevent strings on one of my printers. Don't worry about the zits and blobs that you see. That's due to print settings and not because of the filament.Pros:+ Worked right out of the box with default settings on my QQs Pro with no settings changed outside of fan speeds. (Added to the rating)+ Cheap ish+ Cardboard spoolCons:- A bit stringy using default print settings on my custom UM2 setup. (Not really a con for me, but others who depend on default print settings to operate may find this frustrating. See print settings below.)Other thoughts: I’ve been printing since 2014, so I’m not stranger to modifying settings in order to make things work better. When I started using this filament I was in the midst of tuning for a 1 perimeter, zero infill print to reduce how much filament was being used to make my hydroponic tower. So some of my prints don't look the best because of it. Adding perimeters and infill made the print look MUCH better, it just used way more filament.My print setup using this filament:Custom built UM2 style printerTitan extruderV6 hotend235c hotend75c bed60mms internal print speed30mms external print sleed200mms travel speed80mms retract speed – fast I know, any slower leaves way more retraction artifacts5mm retract – a lot I know, but I use a Bowden with a long tube30-50% fan – I found it mandatory to use fan with this and other petg to help with overhangs1400 mms² accel3000 mms² travel accelFLSun QQs Pro235c hotend75c bedV6 hotend, not V5Titan extruder60mms internal print speed30mms external print speed40mms retract speed225mms travel speed2.5mm retract distance30-50% fan speed2200mms² print accel3000mms² travel accel

Filamento de buena calidad, desafortunadamente venía mal bobinado en varias secciones.

The media could not be loaded.  Very hard to print, I had to heat over the filament recommandation I was more in ABS range than PETG. Otherwise the filament remain matte and is brittle. It's really easy to broke.Filament rolling on the spool is not very good, it's not equal.

Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well.Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2:micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tubebltouch leveling probe + yellow springsnozzle 0.4mm 250cbed plain glass + gluestick, 85cfirst layer speed 10speed after first layer 30first layer height: 0.28layer height after first layer: 0.2fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridgeretraction 3mm @ 30I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times.When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.

Ho acquistato questo filamento avendo letto delle recensioni positive su dei forum online, non sono un esperto di stampa 3D e uso la mia stampante (Bambulab A1), principalmente per il fai da te, devo dire che anche senza avere molta esperienza nel settore sono riuscito ad ottenere dei buoni risultati di stampa, senza aver essiccato il filamento in quanto non possiedo un essiccatore e considerando i consumi di un forno il gioco non varrebbe la candela;il filamento presenta ottime proprietà elastiche ed ha anche una buona resistenza, come si può vedere dalla prima foto (placchetta con copri pulsanti);consiglio l'acquisto per chi è alle prime armi con la stampa 3D.