temproad Aluminum Alloy Bonnet Hood Release Lock Repair Kit Latch Compatible with for Ford Focus MK2 2004-2012

Well made, well thought out, better than the original ford part, only issue is, if the clips on the grille is worn or lost their grip, the unit comes out from grille, but as a previous reviewer indicated, use cable ties around grille and unit to hold, I uses 2, one on front and one on back of grille, but this is better than take the grille out every few months to place the ford unit, well done.

Better than the cheaper plastic ones. Had to do a little adjusting to fit perfectly, but worth it. Had a plastic replacement before this, which only lasted about 10-15 opens. This one feels like it will last.

I've given this 4 stars because it does seem to be more substantial than the original part but I could write a book on how to fit it. There are no instructions supplied in the box so the pictures on Amazon are all you have to show how it fits together. The easiest thing to do is to not use any of the optional parts and just fit the new lock barrel and rod in their default states. The reason you'll be using this kit is because the original plastic piece which fits into the bonnet lock will have broken. Supplied in the kit is a new bonnet lock piece which is also plastic, although maybe made of a better quality plastic. You do however have the option of using a supplied aluminium part instead which is what I chose to do as it should last longer.If you use the supplied lock barrel then you need to carry around the extra new key to unlock the bonnet. It is however possible to swap your existing barrel with the new one so that you still use your old key. I chose this option which is where you need a few tools and time. As shown in the photos, the barrel has a claw which grips the aluminium rod. By opening up the barrel you can swap the plastic claw for the supplied aluminium version. I chose to swap the lock and the claw.The new and old lock barrels both have 3 pins holding the two parts of the barrel together. Supplied with the kit is a pop rivet which I presume is to be used to push out the pins. A pop rivet however bends easily and is not rigid enough to easily remove the wider of the pins so you will either have to keep straightening it or find something else. The rivet will not work on the other two pins as they push into the barrel rather than through to the other side so something slightly thinner and stronger is required. I used a hardened steel nail with the point ground off. As I found out you have to be a bit careful with the two smaller pins as hitting them too hard can damage the inside of the barrel, so push them just far enough in but don't overdo it.Once the barrel has come apart, the front section with the lock is the same fit as the original Ford part so they can be interchanged with the rear outer part. When you open the barrel look out for two small flat pieces of metal which sit in the mechanism near the edge. These will likely fall out but need to be fitted before closing everything up later. With the new barrel open you can carefully prise off the plastic claw part. To fit the aluminium part in its place required me to slightly file around the lock end which held the plastic part in order to to reduce its diameter. The aluminium claw is just too narrow to fit where it needs to over the lock end.Once the part is in place you can re-assemble the old lock mechanism into the new lock body rear shell. Punch the 3 pins back into place then everything is held together again.The next problem was that the new claw would not fit over the plastic ball end of the link rod. If you use the default plastic claw then this is not a problem as it flexes sufficiently to clip over the ball. I had to carefully file down the ball so that the aluminium claw could clip over it. Don't file it too much otherwise the claw won't grip, the rod will fall off and the bonnet won't open again. However, two spare balls are supplied (I hope this doesn't mean that they are a weak point).Fit the link rod to the lock and the bonnet catch and you're ready to go. The inner rod is designed to slide up and down the hollow outer rod, presumably to allow for the car flexing during use. This is why you need to make sure that the claw at the barrel end is tight otherwise if it slips off you're back to square one. If you take the easy route and don't try to change any of the parts then it will be a much more straightforward repair task.

Buy this over any plastic latch this won't break and is solid I out mine in about a year ago and iv not had to look back since highly recommended for the ford boys

It was easy and straight forward to assemble and fit. Really worth it.

I like this because it is metal and it is a rod. A metal rod.Gold AnodiseWhich is nice.Not fitted because I don't have a car.This is a Gold Anodised Metal RodWith a Key

It's anodised aluminium, there were signs that the ends were filed out to fit the plastic pivots. This was done unevenly leaving the pivots very tight. Had to drill the holes out to make them round so they would pivot smoothly. The telescopic rod is a very poor fit and rattles as you drive. Overall, its not worth the amount I paid. I should have bought an OE bonnet cable.

The bonnet latch looks good qualityI have not fitted it yet to give it a proper review