AISIN TKT-026 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus ES300, ES330, RX330, RX400h Toyota Camry, Highlander, Sienna, Solara

This is my 3rd or 4th Aisin TB/WP kit and they have always been perfect, whether Honda/Toyota/I4/V6. OEM quality belt, bearings, pump, adjuster. Never had a failure from one of these units. The backplate for the upper TB cover and camshaft wheels OVERLAPS the Water pump edge preventing otherwise easy removal- deliberate effort to force the work to a shop. BUT--There is a way to remove the WP without pulling the cam wheels and backplate - loosen the backplate bolts before removing the TB - the cam wheel spokes will have to be aligned over the upper backplate bolts to loosen (not remove). I just loosened the lower bolts and got it to work (with struggle), but I had already removed the belt and couldn't turn the cam wheels off alignment. You will also have to remove the 2 long studs with a stud remover tool. The torx bit on the end of the stud will likely snap due to the force required. Turn them slowly with the stud tool up against the block-will have to maneuver around the surrounding obstacles. RISK!-the stud might snap off in the block- unlikely but that's why you need to be careful, turn slowly/evenly/measuredly. Some will prefer to remove the cam wheels to replace the oil seals. The Camshaft Wheel bolts are like 90 ft-lbs plus the breakfree torque required. DIYers know what I am talking about.My 200 Highlander with ~250K seamed to run better, though it could be in my mind.Caveat EmptorGood Luck!!

Perfect fit for my 2006 AWD Sienna. Excellent quality

Complete kit. All components manufactured in Japan. Very high quality components. Kit includes installation instructions, however, they are vague and confusing. Clarity and better illustrations would reduce frustration. Belt is marked 3 places: Bank 1, Bank 2, Crankshaft. Timing belt does not come with direction of rotation markings. Mark old timing belt identical to new belt. Indicate direction of rotation of belt. Match up old to new belt. Mark new belt with direction of rotation at crank. Line up marks. You saved yourself some genuine frustration by marking belts. You will likely need 2 special tools: Camshaft rotator and Harmonic Balancer bolt stabilizer/holder tool. Both available on AMAZON. Radiator may not drain completely when radiator drain valve is removed. Consider removing thermostat housing, or upper radiator hose and attach wet/dry shop vacuum. If cooling system not drained completely, this task can get messy due to massive coolant spill. Time estimate, backyard, working on ground/jackstands, replacing timing belt, idler, tensioner, water pump - about 7-8 hours.

I bought this kit, installed it but after a few days the engine light came on, the scanner told me it was a bad position of the cranshaft, and my problems were solved until I bought the original timing belt. All the other accessories have worked perfectly for me. If you are thinking of buying this package, consider buying the OEM timing belt. I also add that the marks on it had been erased and when measuring it with the OEM one, it is longer or maybe it was stretched too much and it went over 2 or 3 teeth on the shaft.

Really can't do better than OEM. Aisin is Toyota's supplier. A couple tips for the diyer's in adition to the good tutorials available online.- I wouldn't do this without an impact wrench. I bought one for the project and was glad I did. It bailed me out a few times.-Engine pulley can be a pain to get off. First the bolt was stuck, impact wrench would not get it so I tried did the starter bump trick, where you brace a wrench against the car's frame and hit the starter briefly. Still stuck, so I put the wrench back a bit from the brace point so the starter could get a run at it and that finally got the bolt off. Second was that the pulley was still stuck. I ended up fabricating a puller by drilling 3 holes in an aluminum plate. the outside two bolt to the threaded part of the pulley. The middle one was tapped so I could drive a bolt into the shaft forcing the pulley off.- On these vehicles you will find that the water pump has part of it's flange behind the back part of the plate that the cover attaches to. So to get it off besides removing the bolts and nuts that held it on, I had to use a vice grip to remove the two long studs sticking out of it. Then use an impact to remove the cam pulley closest to you while holding the wheel from turning with your hand. Remove as many of the back-plate bolts that you can get to which will free up the back plate enough that you should be able to sneak the water pump out from behind it with some finesse. Use the impact to put the cam wheel back on backing it up again with your hand.- This kit with the "loaded" tensioner where all you have to do is pull out the pin is super nice. Worth the extra money.- Good luck, this one is a little tricky.