Corefix AIR Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixing for Flat Screen TVs, Radiators, Wall Cabinets & Shelving | 24 Trade Box

This is a great product if you have dot & dab walls with a substantial gap between the plasterboard and blockwork behind and wanting to fix something heavy not just TV's. I used these for fixing some additional kitchen storage items from Ikea and installing a TV and so simple to use but with giving a robust trust worthy heavy duty fixing. HOWEVER I also bought the normal Corefix fixings (the red ones) and this one as this one states designed for thermolite blocks. BUT from what I can see they are NO DIFFERENT except the rawl plug is blue rather than red. I have also used the standard Corefix in thermolite blockwork with NO ISSUES. So therefore do not be worried what type of blockwork you have or even what type of Corefix fixings you buy as from what I can tell they are both the same just different colours. With that said, GREAT PRODUCT and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

I used Corefix Air fixings to hang and secure new kitchen wall cabinets to a dot and dab over aerated concrete block wall. They are exceptionally easy to use, feel totally solid and secure and I was very impressed with the look and quality of the 3 components. I saw the video reviews done by Gosforth Handyman and knew that Corefix were the best fittings for the job. I will now be keeping a healthy supply of both the Corefix and Corefix Air fixings in supply for future jobs and customers. They may seem expensive, but, you can definitely see where every penny goes with these. You really are getting good value for money and peace of mind.

Delivered earlier than expected, the instructions for installation were written on the box. They were quite expensive but did a perfect job, I used a 10mm drill through a plaster board and into breeze block wall to hold a floating shelf. I sat on the shelf to test (85kg) and the shelf took the weight. Excellent product for mounting floating shelves,,,

Great product for mounting things on dot and dab walls. Used for a curtain rail and some cupboards. Very easy to use and feels very sturdy. The plug itself is very wide - the hole is drilled with a 10 mm bit so if you’re hanging something with a small bracket it may show around the edges. The hole needs to be drilled quite deep and getting that depth is a bit marginal with standard drill bits. Consequently had trouble on some getting them flush with the wall. With the screws (5 x 100 mm) provided you can only mount things up to 10 mm thick on the wall but with longer screws (I bought some 5 x 120 mm) you can do up to 30 mm. Overall an easy and sturdy fixing for dot and dab walls. Much stronger than a plasterboard fixing and narrower than a grip-it. Quite pricey compared to other types of fixings but cheaper than employing a handyman.

I bought these for my kitchen cabinets - a bit of overkill perhaps,but better safe than sorry. I ended up hanging a big heavy mirror for a neighbour that really benefited from these. They take a 10mm drill bit and it needs to be pretty long, I was maxing out my long drill bit in my SDS drill, so just bear that in mind - you may need to order another drill bit that is sufficient. Paying £20 for some plastic rawl plugs, long screws and small metal cylinders seems a bit excessive, but they do really do the job and they aren't something you use everyday, so I guess I can understand the mark-up

I have use these extensively and they are excellent! My experience is as follows: take it slow and gentle! Note the screws are 6mm diameter, check the holes in your fitting can accommodate the screw size, you may need to gently open up the bracket hole with a 6mm metal drill to ensure a good fit. 1) Always, Always, Always check with a cable pipe detector before you drill into a 'dot and dab' or plasterboard wall suspended on wooden battens. Invest in cable detector to avoid nasty surprises and disasters! 2) Measure out and mark your holes, carefully drill through the the plaster with an 8mm pointed wood drill (this is sacrificial and will wear down over time). 3) Fit an 8mm masonry bit into your drill, use a Core Fix plug to mark off the depth on your drill bit with a piece of masking tape - add a few millimetres 4) Using the hole in the plasterboard as a guide; Drill into the solid wall using the 8mm masonry drill. Do not use the hammer function and take it slowly. Only engage the hammer function if you absolutely need to, and then take it very easy! You don't want to create a crater in crumbly block material! 5) Check the depth with a plug, ensure it can go the full depth of the hole. Use the drill bit by hand to remove any debris. I use a piece of aquarium plastic tubing, fixed to a vacuum cleaner with tape, to clean the holes 6) The plugs have a flange around the entry hole to prevent the plug from disappearing into the drilled hole when you tap in the steel tube. The flange is about 1mm thick. For those applications where it matters, such as curtain pole brackets, where you absolutely need a a flat and flush finish; Trying to hammer it flush may shatter the plaster around the hole which then have to fill and repair. Instead, take a Stanley life (box cutter) and gently shave around the outside of the hole so that the top of the plug will sit flush and level with the surface of the wall. Push the plug in to check if fits, you can used a screw to pull it out if you need to do further drilling to achieve the right depth. 7) Finally, when you are happy with the position and depth; in order to ensure a super-secure fit and prevent turning, spread a some grab adhesive on the plug (I use CT1). Push the plug fully in and most importantly leave 24hrs for the adhesive to set. 8) When you are happy the plug is secure, either with or without grab adhesive (your decision), tap home the tube and attach your fitting with the screw. I always use a manual screw driver rather than a power tool for final fixing

Brought these to fix up curtain rails on a dot and dab wall. The person fitting them was impressed with the product also having the steel thread which sits in the wall plug for the additional support. Rails seem very sturdy with no wobble which I had on a previous rail fitted with normal plugs and screws. The screws do appear quite long when first seen but as they have to go through the plaster board then the gap and then into the brick it is understandable why they are this length and give the support the do.