Wisamic Clear Borosilicate Glass Heat Bed for 3D Printers (235 * 235 * 4mm)

I'm new to 3D printing and using an Ender 3, this single item improved my print quality more than any other upgrade I have tried so far. I was advised to get borosilicate from a friend as apparently it can take higher temperatures better than tempered and as I hope to try more exotic print materials it made sense to get this over the tempered alternative.This is 4mm thick so be aware stock foldback clips are not enough, you need ideally 19mm, I got some 21mm from the corner shop and they work well.I think I'm also discovering I need to offset the heatbed up several degrees or use brims to get good base adhesion and since finding a balance with that the prints have been ten times better than the stock mat.My friend also gave me the sound advice to get some isopropyl alcohol to clean the glass after a few prints, afterall he knows where my hands have been! :-O

Well packed and most importantly... Flat. Adhesion is an irrelevant subject for a plain glass bed....only applies to a bed with a texture or coating. I use a glue stick on plain glass and it works well (I use Pritt as it's consistent).No warping after many high temperatures.Would recommend.

So After busting my ender 3 glass bed, I thought it was just old, I did not like the texture on the ender 3 bed so thought I'd try this one, the first small print went well, second, larger print broke the bed just by warping after it had finished printing. I figured it was my fault using glue and abs so now trying tape to protect the bed a bit, lets see how it goes, second bed is on its way :)

Perfect fits!Puttin' on the Ritz.😏Fits perfectly on the 220x220x3mm plate for the heatbed of my Anet A8 (now on a nice new aluminium frame). So good I'm going to buy another so I can start printing the next piece while the first one cools down. I use 3D Lac heatbed spray adhesive and these little clips: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B094RD4NT and get perfect results every time (unless my filament spools out - but that's for another time).

So far so good, I’m now able to get Petg to stick on my ender 3 pro, though still using a raft 9/10. At some point I’ll try harder to get the settings right so I print directly onto the plate.It’s certainly flatter than the base plate, which makes levelling easier, but I do still get very slight variation in temp across the plate, so the raft can be harder to remove in some spots and not very effective in others. But I imagine that’s got to be more about the heat pad and base plate than the glass itself.

Bought this for an Anet A8, I'd say this is a mandatory upgrade. Not only is it very important for improved bed adhesion, but it's also necessary where the metal heating bed may not be perfectly flat. The bed on my A8 was not perfectly level, it seemed to sag right in the middle and along the center of the Y-axis. This meant if the bed was leveled at the corners it would be too low in the center, and if it was the right height at the center, the corners wouldn't scrape against the nozzle.By adding this glass sheet, it allowed me to get the bed perfectly flat, heat is distributed more evenly, and you get a mirror finish on the flat section touching the bed. Very happy with this.

The glass was exactly as stated. The packing was great, delivery was very fast. Unfortunately, it is too small for my Ender 3. The Ender 3 bed is stated as 220x220, so I thought this size glass would be perfect. However, as I later found out, 220x220 was the print area of the Ender 3 as the bed itself is actually 235x235. If you have an Ender 3 and you want the glass to cover the entire bed, this one is not for you.

This glass bed worked great on my ender 3 with some thermal pads for quick and easy removal, I no longer have it though as I dropped it on the floor while cleaning it and it broke, entirely my fault for losing grip and nothing to do with the glass itself.I was going to buy another but I fancied trying out a different bed first, but if there was no alternatives this would be fine, the glass only covers the 220mm of the print area for ender 3 and not the full 235mm bed so you will need calipers to perfectly line it up to the mm