BRUFER 310103 Heavy Duty Male Electric Plugs - 10 Pack, 3 Prong Plug 125V 15A, Electrical Plug for 3 Wire Power Cord Replacement, Replacement Plug 3 Prong for Extension Cord Ends- Bulk Pack

Greatprice,fast shipping,good quality!!

Very good plug for the price, quality connections and I feel safe using plug

BRUFER 310103 Heavy Duty Male Electrical Plug 3-Prong 125V 15A - 3 Wire Replacement Male Electrical Plug - Bulk Pack of 10 Pieces, Sold by: Hardico, Ordered on September 17, 2023 for $14.59.TLDR: NOT Heavy Duty but good for the price.What makes any connector air quote “Heavy Duty” are the conductors, method of wire attachment, cord strain relief and to a certain degree the housing and the overall ability to take wear and environmental factors. The National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) maintains the standards for all of these electrical components. And these Brufers specifically do not meet the standard, let alone exceed the standard. These blades are thinner (1.1mm) than standard spec (1.5mm). What makes this particularly bad is how the wires are secured to the brass blades, namely a #6-40 1/4” screw. That 0.4mm difference may seem trivial but it is not. That little extra thickness results in 36.5% more tightening torque due to the greater thread engagement and remember these blades are brass not steel. If you do the math, 25.4 divided by 40 yields 0.635mm thread pitch. 1.1mm divided by 0.635 equates to 1.73 threads engaged. 1.5mm divided by 0.635 equates to 2.36 threads engaged. 2.36 divided by 1.73 yields 136.5%. In addition, the thickness of the blades affects compression strength when inserted into a socket. A few milliohms due to less compression force can result in a loose connection in the socket, which can arc, melt and cause FIRE, resulting in loss of property and LIFE. So treat these simple things with respect.Look closely at how the threaded hole is formed for the ground wire in it's blade, you will see it is domed and allows more thread engagement. Too bad the hot and neutral blades do not use the same technique.Also, don’t over torque these or you will strip them out. These will not take the 9.9 inch pounds that is standard torque for a #6-40 screw in brass which requires several thread engagements. My guestimate is less than 2 inch pounds for these. A hand held #2 Philips can exert more than this so be careful. If you do strip them out, don’t worry, just try a #6-40 backing nut. Which you can get right here on amazon for just 10c @.I think it is fair to point out that other three prong plugs suffer the same problems this one does, even those made right here by name brands you have heard of. They all seem to use this same technique of a threaded hole in the brass blades. But just because air quote "everybody does it" doesn't make it good, nor right, nor true. IMHO, they all should have a steel backing nut, or the brass where the screw is should be much thicker than the blades which should be a full 1.5mm. I wish I could recommend a true heavy duty three prong plug that does everything right even for triple the cost, but I have not found any brand new that are. DIY with your own backing nuts with plugs that use true 1.5mm blades may be the only answer.The black plastic back shell is only slightly flexible, a durometer higher than 70 though I do not know what exactly but I am familiar with durometers up to 70 and these are far stiffer. I would hazard a guess they are not butyl but a poly of some sort. The steel clamp is thin and bends easily and can cut your hands so if you use them, I recommend wrapping in electrical tape or just leaving off and not using which is what I do. Although I didn't do it, I did give some thought to filling the back shell with a little bit of RTV or 3M Super Weather Strip Adhesive before putting together. I couldn't decide if that would be a good or bad idea so I refrained. But I sure was tempted...LOL.The back shell has a hole for the cord to pass through and given the stiffness of the back shell material, it takes a fair amount of force to “gorilla” the cord through, phone a friend if you need to. Strip after pushing cord through. Also, if you don’t cut the circle out, you will find aligning the two pieces together is more difficult due to the insufficient keying. But refrain from cutting the circle out.There are no polarity markings on the connector but the method I like to use whenever installing an electrical prong connector on a cord is shown in the attached pic. I just mount a bare electrical socket to a piece of wood (in my case ye old porch banister) with ordinary (min 1.25”) sheetrock screws and plug the prong connector into it. Then at a glance, I can tell which side is neutral (white wire - silver screws on the socket) and hot (black wire - brass screws on the socket). Also makes for a stable hands free support base/clamp/vise without damaging the connector when I go to insert the wires and tighten the #6-40 screws. You can also just put the electrical socket in a vise. Your welcome!Strip the outside sheath off the cord approximately one inch and strip the insulation off the wires approximately 1/4” and you’re golden. The pics show the cord I used for these which is 14AWG stranded. 14AWG fits easily on one side of the screw clamp and tightens merely OK. It might be better to split 1/2 of the strands to the left and the other half to the right of the screw. Then before the back shell is attached, I grab the cord short to the plug head and wiggle it to see if the connections are tight and then just pull the head out of the socket with the cord. It is a method, perhaps not great, but a method to test if the wires are secured tight enough to prevent movement. If any movement between wire and attachment point on the brass blades is noted, it will arc.Lining the back shell up with the blade plate for the three screws is done if you just look and watch what you are doing, two of the holes are closer together and just put one screw in and guide it into it’s hole as you put the two pieces together. Keep in mind the screws will fall out and are not self-retained. Also keep in mind they screw into that black plastic back shell and will not take much torque. Just till they seat, no more. This could easily be made much simpler with more robust keying. If you look closely, there is some light keying, but you will find it insufficient with a tight cord pushed through the back shell.So I take one star off for calling them heavy duty when they don’t even meet the standard. I’ll let all the other less than desirables slide. The best thing about these is that they air quote “work” and are CHEAP.As others have mentioned, they have their place, but I am not confident in using 12AWG nor drawing a full 15A through these. Maybe half that.Edit 6/14/24: At $2.60 apiece these are far superior in every way: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CGRRG4SX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Excelente

I bought these for use in my school's workshop. I was pleased to get so many for a nice price as high school students can be hard on equipment and we lose a plug every few weeks.With these replacements I found a few issues:1) The blades aren't polarized or marked for Hot/Neutral.2) The fit in the socket is very tight. This means that you have to use a lot of force to unplug in.3) (Most important) The strain relief isn't effective at all. The clamps provided don't actually secure the insulation on the wire to the cord. I have screwed in the provided metal clamps as hard as I can and the plug stayed on the cord only a few days.What I've seen happen multiple times with these plugs is that kids yank on the cord and the wires pull out of the screw terminals. The last time this happened, the bare plug was left stuck in a live socket - quite a dangerous condition. On most DIY plugs there is a piece to grip into the insulation or at least some kind of texture that helps the clamp. This one doesn't have it.Having said that, if you need something cheap to plug in once and leave it, I'm sure this will work fine for you. That's why not a one star.

nice

All the wire screws are the same color, need to pay attention when wiring. No notches or guides in the housing to assist aligning when screwing things back together.Cheaply made, wouldn't use it for anything pulling it's rated 15 amps.HOWEVER, I have used them to repair 2 lamps, a hot air popcorn popper, and a heat pad. When I got them, I put a mark on the hot (black) side (see pic) on all of them so I didn't have to think too hard when I wired them up.And they're what, $1.50 each? So if you're willing to put up with a little aggravation to save a couple bucks in a light duty application, go for it.

Cheap, worthless, do not buy, the screws do not stay in the plastic where you screw it together, it fell out while plugged in, I've used 6-7 and they all are made the same, cheap, not safe, dangerous