MK2B Heated Bed with Soldered NTC 3950 Thermistor – 3D Printer PCB Heatbed for MakerBot RepRap UP Mendel I3 Printer

I would love to give this build plate a 5 star review, as it seems very solid. The solder points on the wires are strong and clean. The build plat itself seems wonderful. plenty of extra wire for the plate and the thermistor. The reason I am leaving just one star is due to the fact that there was NO GLASS SHEET. I ordered this because of the borosilicate glass sheet. The packaging says it should be included, but all that was in the package was the heat plate. The items I did recieve are worth more than one star in quality, but I can't use an incomplete product.EDIT: After reaching out to the company they responded with wonderful customer service. They apologized for the omission, refunded half of my money and then sent me a glass plate free of charge! I will certainly order from them again!

I had a problem with the original heated bed that came with my Geeetech Prusa i3 Aluminum. After over a year of use, the heated bed (an MK2A) warped badly, and could not be pulled flat even by clamping it to the glass. I decided to replace both bed and glass, and ended up choosing this heated bed. While the original MK2A is for 12 volt use only, this MK2B is good for either 12 or 24 volts, and comes wired for 12 volts. If you need 24 volts, you will need to unsolder a couple of wires from the board and relocate them. There is a wiring diagram printed right on the bed to tell you where to connect the wires for both voltages. As I had a warping problem, that is the first thing that I checked with this bed. There is a very slight warp, but this is common with this type of material, and it is very slight. I mounted the new bed with the new glass, and to check its heating capability, set it to the highest setting for my control board, which was 135°C. My printer is surrounded by a wooden enclosure with a Lexan door to avoid stray drafts and to trap and increase ambient heat. The MK2B reached 135°C, which made me happy, as I have read of many people having issues reaching 110°C. My only criticism is that the four corner holes are extremely close to the edges. I thought that the original MK2A holes were close to the edges, but these are much closer. Without measuring, I would estimate they are about .020 inches / 0.50 mm from the edge. I haven't had any issues with this yet, but take care to avoid them breaking out. Would I buy this again? Yes, I would.

Perfect replacement bed for the Anet A8... haven't had any problems with it since I installed it several months ago! The only downside I can possibly say about this is that they used excessive soldering on the wires and you cannot lay a sheet of glass over the solder because it's bubbled up on the printing side. Would have been nicer if the printing surface was completely flat. But it works very well!

The unit appears to be well made... The soldering is pretty good. The thermistor has about 900 mm of usable length and is terminated with a female DuPont connector. The power lead is a nice flexible (high strand count) 14 gauge lead. Unfortunately I'll have to replace it with one that is longer than the 600 mm that came with it. This will not reach the controller board on my Geeetech i3 Pro C printer.

Wiring was perfect length, the included thermistor was pre-installed and worked like a charm. The solder joints are pretty hefty but still fairly clean, just take into account the the bottom of the heated bed will have the thermistor wiring and heated bed wiring protruding a bit. Even with the led on the bottom side of the bed it illuminates from under the glass plate and is easy to see, cool feature for sure.

I couldn't find an aluminum bed to replace the one on my Anet A8. The aluminum adds stability to the bed. The actual MK2b Heated bed is rather flimsy, but when you add the glass on top, it is sufficiently strong for 3d printing.It heats up quickly for a 12v bed. You can change it to a 24v bed, but you'd have to resolder the connections. At 12v, it struggles a bit trying to get over 100c but it'll get there, and seems like it wont overheat the connections.Overall, I still wish I could have found an aluminum bed, but I'm not disappointed in this kit. The fact that it's already wired is a plus, yet it has no LED. That would have been a great improvement.

Came nicely packaged, pre-soldered, glass was flat, and it worked. Wires were well attached (good solder joints), thermister was the expected type and seems to read accurately.Currently the two are clipped together and serve as the only build support. With blue painters tape on the glass, the PLA prints stick almost *too* well... :-) (can't speak to ABS as I don't use it)Final shot is a 180mm x 180mm x 5mm flat block to test flatness and adhesion for a large object ... and it was d**n near impossible to remove. .It came out dead flat as far as I could measure. :-)Your milage may vary based on ambient temperature, printing temperature, and bed temp. I was printing in a 90 degree garage (it was summer), bed temp @ 60 degrees, and hatchbox black PLA at 200 degrees.