Blue Magic 18003TRI ThermoSteel High-Temp Metal Repair - 3 oz.

I have an elderly car with a V8 engine and the right exhaust manifold has multiple issues, the most important of which is it is cracked in two near the front. I cleaned off the rust as best as possible and applied the material as best as I could to the supplied directions and so far, it is working well. I let the material set for about a week while attending to other issues before I ran the car. For my use, I needed two jars of the stuff.

OK, so my expectations were fairly low. I have a BADLY cracked exhaust manifold (thanks Ford for your crappy design/cost reduced factory parts). I know it needs replaced, but I cannot take the vehicle out of service for several months, and I really need it to be BETTER, NOW. So I tried this stuff.I spent LOTS of time prepping the surface, shiny metal everywhere and trying to "V" in the crack a bit to give it best shot at adhesion (If you're not going to do that part, just save your money because this stuff, and any product like it absolutely relies on really good surface prep).After laying the stuff in, I actually wrapped it as best I could with high temp exhaust header wrap, and then secured that with stainless steel zip ties.Results - took the leak from horribly bad, loud, causing lean error codes and really bad fumes in cabin to very light exhaust leak note, much lower fumes, no codes. This should be good enough to get me down the road a few months.All in all, because my expectations were realistic, and because I invested the prep time needed, I believe the results achieved met my expectations for the product and were in line with what I paid for it.

Attempted to use this to patch a resonator, which was cracked completely around the circumference of the pipe connection. This resonator should be replaced. However, this was an attempt at a quick repair to pass inspection and renew registration. The patch held until inspection 2 days after application and a drive straight to the station, but failed within a couple of days after.I suspect, based on the consistency and feel of this product, that it would be very good for certain types of cracks in thicker metals, such as cast iron, if you are able to grind a V shape into the crack. Still, it is not very good for thin metal or cracks where there will be considerable shearing vibration, as was the case with my resonator. For those, use a putty or a kit with a fiberglass mat or tape for reinforcement.There also isn't much product in a container, so unless it's a small area to fill and cover, it will spread thin and result in a weaker patch. Perhaps my result would have been different with 3-4x as much to use as filler.

it was easy to put the product in the exhaust manifold of my old Mercedes (april). but 2 weeks after, a crack appeared as shown in the picture. smoke is not comming out of it. i wonder, how long it is going to last. i dont know how to remove the crack.Today, august 2nd, a part of the product desapeared. look at the picture. it is making noise. it lasted for 4 months. It looks like it is falling apart.

This stuff works very well for the money. To fault, I didn't prep my exhaust manifold extremely well due to being rushed on time.....the repair of my 2 inch crack that was causing engine codes still held for 2 years. I just bought some more to use and will correctly prep the surface this time, but honestly even if it only lasts 2 more years, it's worth the price to have a silent car with no codes again! It is soft and runny so create a dam around the area you're working on, or use tape to help hold in place while hardening or it will run off of the surface.

No matter how long you stir it, this product keeps the consistency of very damp sand and doesn't stick to a cleaned exhaust pipe. Each attempt to apply it falls to the ground. A total waste of time, labor and money. Save yours and try something else, maybe a product that shows a video before you buy it.

I have an electric Frigidaire double oven. Both oven floors have developed holes (poor quality steel) and cracks (from poor manufacturing...the oven floors pucker when hot and have stress cracks along the pucker line). Not quite ready to replace a $2K plus oven that's only 8 years old.The goal is too keep any drippings from going through the bottom and hitting the coils (which will crack immediately). Working like a charm for a year now.

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra that had a common issue with the OEM condenser weld crack which leads to Freon leak. Instead of paying 1k+ to replace it or spend 6 or more hours to replace it. I decided to try and seal the hairline crack. After three weeks of daily driving 100 miles for work. I feel confident that this sealed the crack.I made sure to clean the area that I applied it with high %isopropyl alcohol and let this cure a day before driving and adding Freon to the vehicle.