Silicone Body Mount Kit Red 6 Pack

My youngest son recently brought my 2009 Ford F-250 FX4 Super Duty 6.4L into his shop to check it over. He pointed out that the Cab Mount Bushings were completely corroded and missing. He recommended these aftermarket bushings as replacements for the original Ford OEM bushings, which had over 240,000 miles of use. While the original bushings are hard to access and need a torch to unbolt due to the Loctite Ford uses in the assembly, after an evening of work, he managed to replace all the cab bushings with these new ones. The quality of these new silicone bushings from E-colboy seems to match or surpass the OEM bushings. The new bushings look good and are noticeable with the yellow color, while the old bushings were missing. After replacing them, the truck drives like a new vehicle; the vibrations that caused a constant rattling noise before are gone, and the truck rides better than it has in years. Having these installed makes this purchase well worth the money spent. This set came with all the installation hardware needed along with instructions.

They are great! Good price and do what there supposed to i was going to pay over 500 for some good brand ones then decided to go whit these and paid 200 more yo get them installed. I recommend them🤌🏼

Took a chance purchasing these for my 2008 F250. OEM body mounts were trashed. Thanks Ford. Did lots of research and discovered that I preferred silicone replacement body mounts as opposed to OEM or polyurethane. Found these on Amazon. Thought I'd take a chance. Glad I did. However, I discovered some idiosyncrasies about changing these out. Not a deal breaker by any means. 1. When attempting to remove the bolt that holds the body mount in place, I would suggest accessing the cage nuts (not the most brilliant design Ford could have come up with), heating them up for 30-40 seconds with a propane torch similar to what plumbers use to sweat copper fittings. MAP gas not necessary. Be careful to not burn your truck down! Use common sense. Heating the bolt head from under the truck is fairly useless. Some cage nuts will still spin causing lots of frustration. The cage nuts are fairly accessible. On my truck the front ones are accessible on either side of the radiator. Simply remove the rubber air baffles on both sides of the radiator and you will easily see the cage nuts. Then inside the cab there is one on the driver's and passenger's floor boards. You will find black rubber oval plugs. Simply remove to access the cage nuts. At the back of the cab you will find 1 at each of the corners. Remove the jack and related tools and you will find black caps about 1" in diameter and about 1" tall. These pop out. Using this method speeds up the process. 2. Do not torque the new body mounts to OEM settings, unless you want to experience engine vibration "noise" along with road noise and harsh ride. On my truck, I torqued mine to 50 ft. lbs. and all the unpleasantness disappeared. Now it rides good! No engine noise, no harsh related ride, no road noise. Just quiet and smooth. Yes it still rides like an F250, not an F150. I like the design of these mounts. They index just like OEM. The bottom cup fits very well inside the the upper cup. There is even a rubber isolator with waterproof grease on the part of the bottom cup that fits inside the upper cup. This helps ensure that they will come apart if they ever need to be removed. OEM does not have this feature. Am I happy with these mounts? ABSOLUTELY! So happy I didn't have to pay $400 dollars for them. So happy!

Installed perfectly on '09 F-250 crew 2WD gas. I replaced only the front 6 mounts, as I recently had changed the 2 rear cabs mounts separately. THERE IS A DIFFERENT KIT FOR CREW CABS THAT HAS 8 MOUNTS. Like the description clearly states, body mount bolts are not included. Mounts are silicone/steel, fit and index like oem, and appear to be good quality materials. Installed with zero issues. Purchased this kit to resolve a body/frame clunk sound when turning. That sound was resolved by installing this kit. Torquing to OEM specs produces more road noise, I backed all out from 76 to 65 ft-lbs, used loctite, excess road noise eliminated. I feel like I have a new truck! This kit was worth every penny for me!

They fitted perfectly. Looks good and truck is a lot more firm sand cabin more stable. Make sure to look at the instructions on how their are assembled and when trying to loosen the bolts I strongly recommend to used a breaker bar, so do not use any cordless torque power tool, but definitely use a impact rated socket because the normal ones you have in your tool kit might try to stripped the bolt. The impart rated socket is a lot more thicker and will not stripped the bolt. Ok when loosing one side you must losen all three bolts from one side so when lifting the cabin it gives you more space to remove the mount and install the new ones. At last when torquing the bolts to spec the mounts will compress so that’s why is very important you get a torque reader or torque ratchet to thinned it and compress it to manufacture specs. I am not a professional mechanic but had worked on my own vehicle since a little kid. Used this advice at your own risk. Hopefully this info can help someone.

Replaced old detonated bushings on 08 ford f250. Product seemed really good quality, came with all new bolts and even included a couple of extra nuts. I had chased threads on old ones before I saw them in the hardware bag. Improved ride on pickup a lot and took out a lot of rattles in the cab. Glad I went with these instead of crappy ford ones that deteriorate. Front bushings really sucked to get out but new ones go in easy

They have been working well for me. Ride is great. Removal off old cab mounts was what made the installation job tough. All my mounts were rusts together. Once I figured out a system of removal it made the job less tough. After undoing the cab mount bolts I would recommend jacking up one side of the cab and then cut the top section of the mounts with a reciprocating saw, steel blade cutter. Then just bang them out. I had a couple of the carriage nuts turn on me and had to get a wrench on them. The tough one was the front. I had to remove the headlight to access a channel where you can see the top of the carriage nut. Then needed to cut my 7/8” wrench in half in order to get it to fit into the space. Once that was done it was relatively easy.

Great product

roule super ruff pas recommander fait brasser la cabine a tout les bosse