Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE500BW

I bought an Asus Q400a a little less than a year ago. The specs are 8GB RAM, 2.2GHz i7 processor so no bottleneck there but it came with a 5400rpm HDD. The computer took around a minute and a half to boot up plus longer to load windows completely. Browsing the web, launching more than one application and just use in general felt very sluggish. I have a SSD in my custom built desktop and love it so I thought I'd try this out in my laptop. Wow what a difference! Everything runs great and programs open instantly. By modifying some of window's startup settings I now have it booting in under 30 seconds. My laptop is now not a pain to use, and after 4 months I have had no problems with it. I you have an older laptop or desktop I would recommend upgrading to an SSD over any other upgrades. It will give you the biggest overall performance upgrade and does not cost that much to do. If doing this in a laptop I would recommend a 250GB or 500GB to have enough room for everything. If doing this to a desktop you can buy a smaller SSD, install just the operating system and some frequently used programs to it, and keep using the original HDD to store everything else (such as pictures or music). All you'll need is an extra SATA cable ($2 on monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10226&cs_id=1022602&p_id=5115&seq=1&format=2) Installation is a breeze. Before installing make sure to copy the data you want to a flash drive and find your windows install disc or buy a hard drive enclosure to transfer data to your new SSD using the software that comes with it. 1) Google service manual for (your laptop/desktop model) 2) Follow instructions to take off bottom of laptop or side panel of desktop 3) If installing in a laptop you'll probably need to remove the original HDD and swap it out for the SSD. If installing in a desktop, find an empty hard drive slot for your SSD and install it while leaving the original HDD in there. You will be able to use both for storage. 4) Either copy over all data from your old HDD by cloning the drive (you'll need a hard drive enclosure for this) OR reinstall windows (or other OS) using the install disc that came with your computer. (Make sure you select the new SSD as the install location) 5) That's it. Boot up your computer and enjoy!

Hi guys I normally don't write too many reviews for lack of time, but felt compelled to share about this hardware and the system my son and I built after seeing the result! This review was written on 02/21/2015... We bought the MSI Z 97 gaming motherboard to be the foundation of a new gaming platform for my son using an older Antec full tower case to house it all in. Anyone thinking of building a new system should consider the components listed below. After building the computer and turning on the hardware overclocking feature on the motherboard (OC Genie), loading all the drivers and updating using the MSI updating software, the system is stable, hasn't crashed once, and runs games at blazing speeds. My son says he is getting 100 fps plus from every game he has, while running them at max graphics settings, including a popular new title called "Evolve", where the graphics are just stunning. Some games he is getting over 200fps, wow. I went in and looked at Windows performance module, the 3.5 GHZ CPU we put on the motherboard is overclocked by the hardware to 3.95 GHZ with no stability issues. I have watched him play some of his newer games and the system just makes them look gorgeous, amazing processing power! Be sure to hook up dedicated 4-pin power from your power supply to the corresponding audio power jumper on the motherboard, lights up red when you start the system and looks really cool, supplies dedicated power to the rear audio jacks. One thing to note in the motherboard installation book it does not tell you which position to set the DIP switch to enable powered audio rear jacks until four pages later than where it tells/shows you which jumper to plug in dedicated power, that info should be on same page in manual. Remember the graphics card listed below recommends a minimum 750 watt power supply due to the high wattage of the card. I replace my older 500W power supply just to be safe. This is a huge graphics card so make sure you have a full size case to start your build. Another thing make sure you don't have any power cables in the way of the graphics card fans at startup, double check, the fans most be running. At initial startup we had a power cable that that got in the way of one of the fans, but we caught it right away and re-routed it so the fan would spin. Please note this motherboard does not have any IDE bus ports to support legacy drives, so all your drives must be SATA bus (the modern current bus) to run. On the motherboard there is a handy jumper connector for the front case wires that comes with the motherboard, you just plug the wires into the connector where labeled and then plug the connector into the jumper set on the motherboard, thank you MSI. Also this was the first computer I have built with a Solid State Drive and the data read/write speeds are indeed impressive. We splurged and bought the keyboard listed below, what can I say I never seen such a cool looking and well built keyboard, the colors and feel of the keys is impressive. This was a great project for me and my son, and the result was a screaming fast new computer which he loves, and was allot cheaper than buying complete from a regular vendor! Total cost was around 1400.00 if I remember right. [email protected] - MSI ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z97 - Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-7TE500BW) - Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K (Core multiplier is UNLOCKED for overclocking!) includes nice fan that seems to be cooling the CPU fine looking at the operating temps in the BIOS - MSI Computer Corp. AMD Radeon R9 290 Gaming OC 4GB GDDR5 2DVI/HDMI/Display Port PCI-Express Video Card R9 290 GAMING 4G - AMD Radeon Memory R9 Gamer Series Memory 8GB (2x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) R938G2401U1K - new Corsair 750 Watt Power Supply (new modular style - came with all the power cords needed for the new system and graphics card) - new HP 16x DVD/CD RW Drive (I had to get a new one with new style power connector and SATA bus (all my old optical drives were IDE bus) - Razer Black Widow Chroma click Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5 Grams for mounting the fan on the CPU

*THIRD UPDATE*(Edited October 11, 2015) The drive is still chugging along like a champ. The computer I put it in has been junk, but the drive has been fantastic. Still 5 stars. -------------------------------------------- *SECOND UPDATE*(Edited August 3, 2014) Still running like a champ. I can see no reasons at all to not buy this drive. I have no choice to give it 5 stars. -------------------------------------------- *UPDATE*(edited June 16, 2014) Wow. This thing is just unbelievably fast, even after having it for a month and a half. I run several games off of it, and the load times are incredible. An example would be Fallout: New Vegas. With a standard drive, the loading wheel would normally spin for 10-15 seconds. With my OCZ drive, it cut it down to about 5 seconds. With this drive, it is down to maybe 2 seconds. I just can't say enough good things about this drive. If I had the chance to go back in time and either do it again or save my money, I would buy it again in an instant. -------------------------------------------- The drive is excellent. I had an OCZ Agility 3 drive that was only 120gb. It was simply too small. I upgraded to this 500gb drive. It is blazing fast. I had bought RAM for my old laptop that ended up not being compatible for some reason, and I was too late to return that to the store. Since it was sitting around, I decided trying to stick one of the 4gb sticks into the open slot on this laptop. It worked like a charm, and boosted my ram to 12gb. Realistically, I won't use the 12gb any time soon. However, this drive has a "RAPID" feature that allows you to steal some of the ram from your system(2gb in my case) and use it as a cache space for the SSD. Even though this drive is FAST to begin with(I was actually getting 550MB/s read and write), the RAPID feature speeds it up even more. In ATTO Disk Benchmark, I am actually showing read and write speeds of ~1050MB/s. I realize that is impossible, as the maximum theoretical rate for SATA III is 6.0Gb/s, or 750MB/s. I can't say anything about the included migration software, as I used Ghost to clone everything. The only thing I was disappointed to find was that it didn't have the spacer or migration cable, but that is my own fault for ordering the "Single Unit" product and not the "Notebook Kit". I feel it would be unfair to give the product a lower rating due to my mistake. I would just like to warn any prospective buyers that they need to look at the Notebook Kit or Desktop Kit if they are expecting this to come with anything else. The drive is only 7mm thick. If your laptop just lets the drive slide into a slot, this one will likely have some wiggle room. The spacer that comes in the Laptop Kit will take care of that. Since I have only had the drive in here for 1 day, I plan on updating my review about 3 months from now, unless the drive fails before then.

This drive is fast and trouble-free but there are some things you should know about setting up Windows 7 and the Samsung Magician software. Clone the hard disk or start fresh? I'm glad I started with the laptop's factory disk image rather than cloning the old hard disk (and its accumulated Windows problems), but that took me way too many hours to install all the Windows Updates and set things up, partly because I ended up doing it twice. Backup: Windows 7 Backup & Restore can back up data files to an external disk but it fails with a non-specific error message trying to save a system image to a disk larger than 2 TB. This burns hours of problem solving time. On trying to restore a system image, I got past one problem via a bootable System Repair disk USB key, and past another unhelpful error message (0x80070057) by yanking the USB key right before starting the system restore operation, but got stuck at "No disk that can be used for recovering the system disk can be found." Over-provisioning: The Samsung Magician software can configure the OS to optimize SSD performance, including "over-provisioning" the SSD (that is, allocating space to speed up sustained writes), but it can only set up over-provisioning *if* that space can come out of the last partition. That's incompatible with my laptop's factory disk image. I tried to work around this by adjusting partitions but the result was having to start all over with the factory disk image and Windows Updates. Fortunately, there's another way to over-provision: Shrink a partition to leave some unallocated space between partitions, anywhere on the SSD. (Samsung recommends 10%.) You don’t have to do anything special to devote that space to the purpose. (Thanks, Samsung phone tech support for this help!) Windows restore points: The Windows installer is supposed to make system restore points but it started out with a broken configuration. The fix: Open System Properties, pick the System Protection tab, and check "available drives" for any drives labelled "... (Missing)". Turn off "system protection" for those drives. Then turn it on for the real C: entry. Faster updates: It takes a long time to iterate on installing Windows Updates. Fortunately this is faster on an SSD than a hard disk. Save more time by having only one user account and no password so Windows reboot won’t stop for login. Also watch the taskbar for license dialogs that open up behind other windows but require clicks to proceed. Fix a bootup annoyance: After installing Windows, all its updates, and Samsung Magician, you use Magician to adjust system settings for SSD performance. Then you’ll find that Magician needs permission to "make changes to this computer" on every boot. That's annoying, but fixable. Samsung tech support explained that you can then remove Magician from the startup list via msconfig. Optimizations: Unschedule defrag and adjust power plans to never turn off the "hard disk." I recommend this SSD to anyone who boots from a hard disk and is (a) up for wrangling with Windows install & update, or (b) willing to clone their hard disk. If you're running OS X or Linux, please extrapolate.

This was my first SSD purchase. I'm not disappointed. My old HDD was definitely the bottleneck preventing me from achieving ludicrous speed. I'm going to share what i've learned over the last few days as well as list my configuration in case someone has a hardware-related question. Windows 7 Home Premium Intel i7-3820 @3.6GHz ASUS p9x79e LE Motherboard Radeon HD 7950 @ 850MHz 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws @ 1600MHz 2 x ViewSonic VA2703-LED 27-Inch LED-Lit LCD Something I did not understand at first: How do you clone a 1TB HDD (my previous hard drive, to be cloned) to a 500GB SSD? The answer is you simply have to delete data on the 1TB until there is less than 460GB of data on it, then clone. Later you can configure your old drive as internal storage by going to 'Computer Management' and then 'Disc Management'. After cloning the drive, enter the BIOS on boot-up and change the boot order with the EVO having priority. My computer now takes 17 seconds to fully boot (compared with 40 previously), ~5 seconds to fully shut down, and i've noticed significantly reduced load times in games (by at least a factor of 2x). Since this particular **Single Unit Version** did not come with any cables, i bought a patuoxun SATA-to-USB adapter (9$) for convenience. You don't actually need to use a SATA-to-USB cable. You can plug it in directly to one of the SATA cables from your mobo and clone your drive using that configuration. It comes with the software (magician, data migration) and it seems to work well. The drive advertises 256-bit encryption, which it does have, but *your motherboard* must support this feature (TPM) in order for you to use it. Software based encryption like Truecrypt is not secure. From their website: "Due to security reasons, we recommend that TrueCrypt volumes are not created/stored on devices (or in file systems) that utilize a wear-leveling mechanism (and that TrueCrypt is not used to encrypt any portions of such devices or filesystems)." Applications now open instantly, and this is especially beneficial if you're someone who could use a productivity boost (Students, Programmers). By using solid state I've estimated that over a 3-year span I will save ~18.5 hours just turning on and off the computer. Ever since I started using it, all I think about it getting 3 more to throw in RAID. 5/5.

Came very close to returning this drive, but glad I hung with it. I bought this drive to upgrade my desktop PC. One of the features I looked forward to was the Samsung Data Migration software to hopefully make the upgrade from the existing drive a "no brainer". For me, that turned out to be a big mistake. Following Data Migration, the drive initially seemed very fast both in usage with Windows 7 and in the performance benchmarks you can run with Samsung Magician. Windows started to hang intermittently though, and the hangs became more frequent and longer duration. The drive was reporting large numbers of Interface CRC errors (over 300K of them by the time I resolved the issues), and Samsung was reporting the drive in a "frozen state". I swapped out the SATA Cable, and swapped cables between an older working hard drive reporting no CRC errors and the new SSD. Also followed Samsung's directions to open the case and unplug/replug the power connector from the SSD while the PC was running. No help from any of these steps. I checked the alignment and what was reported appeared to be correct. So, what to do? I was ready to ship it back and in fact, Samsung tech support recommended that I do just that. But the CRC errors were bugging me and I wanted to verify it wasn't a motherboard related error that would just keep biting me in the arse if I exchanged the SSD for another one. So I erased the drive (deleted the volumes and partition using Windows Storage Management - TRIM does the job of erasing the data), created a fresh MBR partition and a freshly formatted NTFS volume. then restored from my backup (using Macrium Reflect). All good. No reported CRC errors at all, and consistently screaming fast performance... especially compared to my old WDC hard drive. With Rapid IO on (write cache buffering as I understand it), Samsung Magician reports up to 538 MB/s Seq Read and 853 MB/s Seq write. Real world, Explorer reported about 180 MB/s copying 6 GB of pictures to another folder on the same disk.The large file copy test at 180 MB/s compares to 38.5 MB/s with my 7200rpm hard drive. This real world test result did not seem to change much with Rapid IO on or off, but I do see a difference in performance for things like surfing the net which really pops. Almost instantaneous as long as my network connection is good. I think it probably hits a very high burst rate (853 MB/s) for writing relatively small chunks of data, but is just not sustained for larger volumes of files like the other test I did. Random IOPS reports 62151 read and 47149 write (decreases from 65557/57490 with Rapid IO off). This compares to 205/276 reported for the 7200rpm Drive. A 300 fold improvement on random Reads compared to the old hard drive. If you are upgrading an existing system and not doing a fresh Windows install, my advice is to use Windows to create the partition and NTFS volume yourself, then restore to the new volume. This should avoid the likelihood you just clone a sector for sector image from the old hard drive that is not properly aligned for the SSD. Overall five stars for the drive once properly installed/upgraded. Dinged it one star for the install problems and all the time I spent resolving them.

Pros: * Works and Windows disk performance on my HP DV6 with AMD A8 chip went from 5.6 to 7.9. * System boots fast with new SSD DRIVE. * Software works as advertised. Cons: * Software and documentation for SSD Install assume we know what we are doing. * In System transfer software says Source data will be lost/ This means you have to back up your system before attempting install. That is unless you are very brave. LOL * It would be nice if transfer cable was provided or recommended type. Mistakes: 1. Biggest one Purchased Apricorn System Transfer system. Having read many of the reviews I made the mistake of thinking maybe another software would work better, so I purchased the USB 3.0 version of Apricorn system upgrade kit. It comes with cable and software. If you made the same mistake just put the software aside and use the cable with Samsung software. If I were to do over would have just bought a cable like: http://www.amazon.com/Patuoxun-SATA-Hard-Driver-Adapter/dp/B00C598VXW/ref=sr_1_153?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1396198617&sr=1-153&keywords=USB+3.0+Sata+cable which can be purchased for under $10 total. 2. I did not back up system until I got to point that it looked like it would be necessary. Unless you are very brave create both an emergency disk and back up your entire system before attempting SSD Transfer. 3. I let lack of directions intimidate me with Samsung software. Just install it and follow the prompts you will get through the install process. 4. Almost broke laptop case due to haste. Should have watched more YouTube case openings for my system right before SSD installation. 5. I did not read all the reviews about disk partitioning close enough. This is my first SSD HD and Laptop disk installation ever so I probably should have learned from others advice more. Plus I have found in the past that reading reviews you get a better feeling for the product. I knew I wanted the Samsung SSD, just didn't know about the install on my system. 6. Lastly I have a UPS Unit that I could have used but did not. The software says that once transfer starts not to turn off computer for any reason. What if my power were to fail, I would have been writing what a fool I was not to use my UPS. I was just lucky on this one. Better to avoid problems if at all possible. 7. Back to partitioning. When I did my second partition which is used for system recovery on my system I added a few gigs just in case and am glad that I did. I read something about the last partition being used when you allocate more memory to drive performance. I have much to learn about this drive, SSD drive installations and using an SSD drive all together. 8. 3/31/14 Almost forgot when doing the data migration I think you want to be sure to set your size on any secondary partitions to be created on your SSD drive. This is done by left clicking on the destination drive moving the size bar. Play with it a bit to see what I am talking about. Do this before you start your system transfer. I used 20 GB for my D: partition which is the HP system recovery partition. You can probably get partitioning software to adjust your partition without losing data, but why not get it right the first time. It looked to me like if I had not adjusted the partition that the software would have made my partition would have been with no extra room for any additions to the system recovery drive D:, but not sure. Okay with all that said I really like the Samsung drive. I would buy it again, and I wish you the best with your installation. Don't rush it and I am sure all will go fine.

*** Update Dec 4th 2014 I've had this SSD in my MacBook Pro for almost a year... I cannot begin to explain how impressively different the experience is. My Macbook came with a standard 500GB 5400rpm HDD, so moving to a 500GB SSD both improves battery life, but also power up and practically every other process I can think of. My friends are jealous because transferring big files (couple of GB) from a thumb drive to my computer takes seconds vs 15 minutes in their standard 7200 rpm HDDs LOL. If you're opening up your Mac to install this mighty drive I also suggest upgrading the Memory. I went up from 4GB to 16GB, this my friends is money well spent. Instructions on how to install OSX below... ________________________________________________________________________________________ My MacBook Pro fell off the bed a couple of weeks ago, and started making this noise. Took it to the Mac Store and they told me it was the HDD's (500GB 5400rpm it came with by default) motor that was screwed up and only way to fix it was to replace it. I looked online and everybody agreed my HDD would eventually die. I looked and looked and compared, and looked some more and decided this was the best replacement / upgrade for the price. ** Note: You do not need to clone your old drive to his one prior to installation. Apple has wonderful software already embedded in their OS X installation software and there is no need for using 3rd parties that will only make things more complicated - keep reading. What you will need: - Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III SSD (obviously) or any other SSD compatible - Antistatic Mat (Not mandatory, but you don't want to risk frying your components with static charge, right?) (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004N96WQ0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)) - Blue-Medium Strength Threadlocker (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEMZ2/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - Screwdriver set. If you already have a Philips 00 and Torx T6 screwdriver, great you can use those, if not this is a great set for the price (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FGQ1G6/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i04?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - 1GB or higher thumb drive - USB to SATA adapter (if you want to bring stuff from your old drive into the new one I personally bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B3VO24/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which seems a bit expensive but has great reviews). Get ready by: 1) Turn on your computer, connect the thumb drive and google: Apple Recovery Disk Assistant 2) Select the very 1st link (from Apple) and clock download (this will work by lion and mountain lion, not sure about mavericks or previous versions) 3) Open program and follow instructions. Select your thumb drive when prompted, and eject it once finished. What you need to do: 1) Turn off your computer 2) Spread anti-static mat on a had surface (table) 3) Lay your computer upside down and remove screws using the Philips 00 ** Note: My MacBook and yours probably too, had 7 short screws and 3 long ones, I used a technique I saw online of getting a bit of duct tape upside down on the table and paste the screws there in the same order I removed them to avoid confusion. 4) Remove bottom panel. you should see the HDD in the lower left hand corner, just below the CD / DVD drive. 5) Unscrew (with the same philips) the black thingy that's between the HDD and the DVD drive (2 screws). Screws don't need to come off, you'll basically just loosen that part to be able to remove it completely. 6) Pull up the HDD by the small plastic that looks like scotch tape and disconnect it from the SATA conector (left side). 7) Using the Torx T6 screwdriver remove the 4 screws from the HDD (look like handles) and set them aside. 8) Unbox the SSD and using the Torx T6 place the previously removed screws from the HDD into the SSD (use a small dropplet of the blue threadlocker to dip the screws first (just the very tip) to ensure no movement with vibration. 9) Connect the SATA connector to the SSD and put back in the place of the SSD 10) Using the Philips 00 screw back the black thingy you previously removed with the 2 screws, this will lock your new SSD in place. Once you have done just try to move them a little and see they are not loose. 11) Place the bottom panel right back and use the Philips 00 to get the screws back in place. Make sure to dip the tip of each on a bit of the blue threadlock to avoid them getting out with movement, etc. 12) Turn on your computer. When you hear the booting on sound press and hold the "Option" key 13) Click on your Thumb Drive and continue to the OS X Utilities menu 14) Select Disk Utility and select Erase tab. 15) Select: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) and give the drive a name, when you're done click Erase (takes a min or so). 16) Go back to the OS X Utilities main screen 17) Select Reinstall OS X (many people don't want to do this, but I find it better to ensure a fresh install that will remove any previous errors the old HDD might have. 18) Follow the instructions, you will need an active internet connection (takes about half an hour, your computer will restart on its own). 19) Once the computer is back on, you will be prompted with the configuration screen (keyboard, language etc), just continue and select your preferences. You will get to a screen that will prompt if you want to import data from other computer, or drive. 20) Select other drive, and connect your old HDD with the USB to SATA connector and hit next. 21) Select the things you want to import (preferences, applications, etc) I personally imported them all (took about 45 mins). You are done. Your computer will ask for your password and when you get in, you'll notice that everything on your computer is exactly the same as you used to have. No need for 3rd party or any other type of software to make things more difficult and that could bring potential harm to your system. Any questions please let me know. I am very happy with my new SSD :)

Do go for it if you're looking to buy SSD having 500GB capacity. Read speed has improved after updating to the latest firmware released on 15th oct. Getting 551MBbs, sigh! Not going to comment on TLC vs MLC. Each one has its own merits and demerits. Definitely a worthy storage option for a typical client load.

Update: Aprile 2018!!!!!!! Nulla è cambiato rispetto a quanto descritto nell'aggiornamento di novembre 2017. Incredibile affidabilità. Uno dei migliori acquisti di sempre!!!!! Update: novembre 2017. Desktop acceso 6 giorni su 7 24 su 24h. Solo una leggera perdita di prestazioni dovuta più all'incasinamento del SO e dei programmi che qualcosa che dipenda dall'SSD. Nessun problema, perdita di dati, blocchi. Nulla tutto perfetto. Rendita al 100%. Acquisto tra i migliori in assoluto in relazione a prezzo-qualità-durata Il disco, nella versione semplice senza kit di installazione, arriva con il solo CD con il software Data Migration e Magician, una guida di installazione per immagini che è davvero fuorviante e la garanzia. Insomma dovete avere tutto voi per poterlo installare e configurare. La guida di installazione alla prima figura mostra di inserire il cd ed un monitor con l'immagine del software samsung che si carica. Alla seconda dice di collegare attraverso una interfaccia SATA-USB il disco SSD al computer per far partire la clonazione del vs disco e non mostra che sia possibile farlo in alcun altro modo. In realtà il CD fornito non è avviabile e quindi si deve accendere il computer e dopo che windows è partito potrete lanciare il software samsung. La prima considerazione è che a questo punto andate direttamente sul sito di Samsung e scaricatevi le versioni aggiornate di Data Migration Tools e Magicians ed usate quest e non il cd. La seconda cosa è che se connettete il disco SSD al computer prima di avviarlo ad una porta SATA sarà possibile portare a termine normalmente la clonazione avendo solo cura di selezionare i dischi giusti durante l'operazione. Una volta terminata la clonazione basterà riavviare e nel bios selezionare come disco di avvio quello SSD. Non appena windows si sarà avviato dal nuovo disco lanciate subito Magicians che vi aiuterà a fare le opportune configurazioni a seconda del tipo di uso che vorrete fare del disco samsung. Mi sono molto dilungato a parlarvi della installazione perchè non posso giudicare le prestazioni. Ho un computer datato che non ha un controller SATAIII e gioco forza le prestazioni non possono essere un riferimento valido. Posso assicurarvi che anche così l'incremento prestazionale rispetto ai "vecchi" HD è notevole. Effettivamente la mia installazione di windows 8.1 prima impiegava tra i 25 ed i 35 secondi a finire totalmente il boot e circa 15 prima di essere pronto ai comandi; adesso dopo 4 secondi è pronto a ricevere comandi è il boot è finalizzato entro i 15. Ho letto che ci sono stati molti problemi con il decadimento delle prestazioni dopo un uso minimo di questa famiglia di dischi della samsung. Non ha colpito tutti i dischi prodotto ma molti. E' stato rilasciato da poco però un aggiornamento del firmware che rimette i dischi con problemi alle impostazioni previste. Se sfortunatamente dovreste avere uno di questi dischi non è il semplice aggiornamento del firmware a risolvere il problema ma un apposito software sul sito Samsung che oltre ad installare il firmware modificato fa delle altre operazioni necessarie alla soluzione del problema.

This solid state drive is amazing! I replaced it on a 13 inch MacBook Pro (Early 2011) that had the standard 500GB Hard Drive. It is like a completely new laptop, the speed is on another level. Everything opens so fast and works smoothly. It is an AMAZING upgrade for your computer. It also made my MacBook slightly lighter, the SSD barely weighs anything. Definitely worth the price.

Gives your old lethargic pc a new energy. There is almost 5x improvement in pc's performance after installing this. Had some issues in cloning data from my old hard disk to samsung ssd with samsung's bundled cloning software as the data migration software failed to create windows 100/200 mb boot partition on the ssd. Used alternative method to clone my old drive. Also the package did not included sata-usb adapter to connect the ssd to pc for cloning old hard drive. Fortunately I used my internal laptop hard disk enclosure which are readily available in the market for migration old hdd data on ssd.

Worked as advertised. Triple or quadrupled the speed of my 2011 iMac which seemed to be hobbled by Mavericks. This trick (using a 1TB Samsung 840 EVO) worked on my other 2 Macs at home which were significantly slowed by OS X upgrades.