Aves-Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 4 Pound, White/Stone White

I started sculpting with polymer clay thirteen years ago. I loved how easy it was to work with, how you could color it and shade it and highlight it with chalk pastels, how it didn't really stick to anything. but I also had a lot of problems with it; it only cures in the oven so that limits what i can sculpt on, both based on size as well as material. I didn't like how acrylic paint dried on polymer clay, it always remained tacky unless you seal it, which still didn't always do the trick. it was also pretty fragile, which is probably my main complaint. I sell my sculptures, I can't have them falling apart on the drive home. so during all those years of primarily using polymer clay, I played with some other clays too. all, every single one, of the air dry clays i tried shrunk and cracked like heck in the drying process. also incredibly fragile, more so than polymer clay. I started making my own paper clay, which was fun and extremely sturdy. so so so so sturdy. but I could never get it 100% smooth. there was always some texture to it. which is great for some things, but not everything. i love pottery clay, but I don't have a kiln and there aren't any for rent in my area. a youtuber that i follow, who use to only use polymer clay, posted a new video using Aves Apoxy Sculpt. she did a little review and it sounds too good to be true. I can sculpt on anything i want? it doesn't shrink or crack? it's super duper strong? it takes to paint perfectly? I was sold. my review is even more glowing. this clay was such a magical find and I'll probably be using it forever. i love that it sticks to anything, that I can put it in the oven at low temp to cure liquid polymer clay with the Apoxy, that i don't need a primer or sealant for acrylic or guauche paints, that is doesn't break easily at all. although it's pretty dang close, it's not perfect. this one, the "sculpt", gives you 2 ish hours to work with it (depending a little on the temperature of your home). that's not that much time. it's okay though, all you have to do is plan ahead of time which part of your sculpture needs to be done first, and just complete that, or even just the base of that. and then second, third, etc. just an extra step. the second thing I would say is it's a medium amount harder to work with than polymer clay. it's pretty sticky, so it sticks to your hands and any surface that's not silicone. it's also really soft at first, doesn't hold itself up. if i were sculpting a horse head onto the body of the horse, it would droop and hand down like a sad little bab. so parts of your project like that, wait about an hour for the clay to harden up a bit. overall, magic.

I used this to repatch a major door dent. I did not want to use a more widely available product that is used for repatching automobiles due to the high volatile organic compound (VOC) that is harmful to breathing and general exposure, plus I had to do the patchwork inside a building. Before purchasing, I kept thinking that it might have a slight odor similar to two part epoxy or superglue, but it didn't even have that. There's very little odor at all, if any. The key to using this to repatch is having a spray bottle to wet the surface of the epoxy clay. If you don't, the clay is so sticky that it becomes impossible to mold or sculpt in a smooth manner. Once sprayed, the clay feels and sculpts almost like real clay. In order to get a smooth, flat finish, I used a spare plastic gift card to smooth the wet surface. After a few passes, the surface starts to become sticky again and needs more water. But with plenty of spraying, you can smooth it down fairly well. If you are sculpting an art project by hand, it's easy to start out blocking in the shapes, but the more you use it the more residue gets on your hands, which can cause the clay to stick to your hand as you continue to sculpt, leaving more sticky texture. You can remedy this with the spray bottle, re-smoothing, etc. The drying time is very generous. After about 90 minutes, the clay was still very soft, but had changed enough where it would bead up a bit if I still tried to smooth it out. 90 minutes is an eternity and plenty of time to sculpt compared to the other stuff. After 5 hours, I could still make indentations and it felt like old/hard sculpey/fimo clay. After 10 hours, it became like rock. The consistency of the dried clay reminded me of soap stone or baked sculpey/fimo clay. You could carve detail into it with an exacto knife, chisel, or rasp. Lots of opportunity for fine carving. I used sandpaper to sand it down before priming and repainting the area and the dried clay sanded down smoothly--no cracking or flaking. I used this on a metal door, but it'll stick to just about anything...wood, plastic, paper, etc. Clean up was easy...just rubbed my hands under water to dissolve the clay and rewashed again with dish soap. I can't vouch for the effects of skin exposure, which is why I washed my hands carefully afterwards. I was very impressed with this stuff and glad to have stumbled upon it instead of going the high-VOC route! If you are wary of breathing in toxic fumes from other commercial products for repatching, this is the way to go.

awesome epoxy putty: just the right amount of stickiness and viscosity and the 1-3 hour working time won't make your blood pressure go through the roof watching the clock tick tock ... cures rock hard ... [ and don't risk using the cheap Brand X stuff: cheap epoxy putty isn't a good buy if it permanently and irrecoverably ruins your project.]

It's dries well and it's smooth and easy to sculpt with, gold standard for custom dolls

I'm a cosplayer and this is perfect for creating certain details that'd I otherwise not be able to create! It's pretty easy to eyeball an even amount but if you MUST have equal amounts of A and B then get a scale. The material is really REALLY pliable once you get to using it and spreads REALLY nicely over, say, an armature or something (I used balled up tin foil for mine). It stays soft for a very long time and is easily smoothed out with water. Once it dries, it's just as easy to add more apoxie sculpt if you so choose (I let mine dry and then glued it onto the top of a staff and then hid the seam with even more apoxie sculpt!!) It sands awesomely to help get a smooth finish, especially if you actually go from medium to fine sandpapers. It is easy to sand through all the way to your armature if you're not careful (because it DOES sand so easily), but that's easily remedied by MORE apoxie sculpt, or, you can just add body filler like I did to those problem areas. It plays very nicely with body filler, by the way. I had a few areas where there was a crease or I had accidentally scraped with my nail and once I filled it with body filler, you couldn't tell the difference! As for painting, it took the paint really well (I used spray paint) and I didn't have to work for a nice affect (I did a light brown, some red, then a dark brown). All in all, I'm super happy I bought this and look forward to using it more in the future!

I love this stuff. Been using it for awhile now. Ordered here as opposed to my normal ordering via Aves. Cheaper than manufacturer site with prime ordering. Received as ordered and quickly, which was much appreciated as I was almost out of my supply. I sculpt with it, and when dry I carve on it, sand it, paint it, and mix stuff into it and mount stuff on it when wet. I make tools, make jewelry, gifts, faux raku pottery, and use it for repairs around the house. When cured it is so hard and sturdy, while maintaining such great detail. Tips: Keep your fingers away from your face when handling it, nasty rash results. Use hydrocortisone to clear it up. Working time shortens on hot days to 1hr..speed sculpt! Its best to sculpt in stages, in small quantities. If your doing a large sculpture you can sculpt as you would clay, where you use an inner form of foil or newspaper, but you can leave it inside in this case and seal it up with an outer layer. It will slump, so use molds or other items to prop parts as they cure. Also, just get the color wheel or add pigments to a white base, not really necessary to purchase a rainbow, just mix color into part a, then match the mixed amount ball size to your part b. Oh yeah, best thing i have found to keep surfaces and your hands sticky free is olive oil, or a hand cream with olive oil. I use olive body butter from the body shop, its works grwat even to smooth clay surfaces. After it cures, just rinse the cured clay in blue dawn and water. Btw, use only blue dawn, a dish scrubber and warm water to clean up. Dont forget under your nails, and dont wash uncured clay down sink, it cures under water. You can slow the cure by sticking it in the freezer, and speed the cure by adding a little more part b to part a, instead of the normal 50-50 ratio. Using the olive oil, you can then start with refinements, mica, or whatever while it is still curing, or begin sculpting with it right away, rather then having to let it rest for 15 mins after mixing to get a better sculpting consistency. Anyways, love love it, and I will order again for sure. I'm addicted to the stuff!! Pic shows epoxy clay sculpted before finishing details, and adding finishes.

Works as claimed. Wear nitrile gloves. May be messy and sticky at first but after in place a bit it hardens enough to use standard clay sculpting tools and, as it stiffens, riflers. Smooth with wet-or-dry sand paper. Really strong!

The clay is almost odorless but there's a slight odor but all clays have a slight plastic smell to me. When you first mix the two clays it will be VERY sticky. Once mixed thoroughly it will look and feel like polymer clay. From that point you have to use it right away. I've found I have about twenty minutes to do what I need with the clay before it can no longer be kneaded. It sets up really fast and in about 2 to 3 hours, depending on the size of your item, it will be dry enough to hold without damaging any details. This is also the best time to do any light carving you want to add. It takes 24 hours to completely cure and at that time the clay will be very similar to resin in it's weight, feel and durability. I took a small drill to some pieces I made and it slid through the piece without a hiccup. No chipping, no cracking. It sands really good too. It adheres to metal, glass and wood without adding adhesives first. Just stick the clay to the glass and it's not going anywhere. This clay performs as it says it does. TIP 1: once the clay is mixed use a baby wipe to remove the tackiness from your hand or it will be hard to continue working with the clay. TIP 2: this clay will adhere to whatever it is sitting on to dry. I use a piece of parchment taped to the counter.

Es muy bueno para hacer muchos trabajos .Gracias vendedor

Perfect for sculpting over papier-mâché

This is good, tough stuff! It's easy to sculpt using a tiny bit of water to stop it sticking to your gloved hands and tools, and it's waterproof. Just what I needed to make an escape ramp for wildlife in my pond in a pot. The only downside for me is having to mix the two parts together, each for two minutes - anything bigger than golf ball sized parts of each would be difficult to mix. However, if speed isn't of the essence, I'd highly recommend this, even though it is pricey.

Fantastica questa pasta bifasica. Molto resistente, si modella con facilità... Aderisce a tante superfici senza staccarsi. Ho aggiustato diverse cosette in casa e creato piccoli oggetti da regalare. Consigli altissima.

Best thing for crafts!