565 Automotive White Thread Sealant - General Purpose, High Viscosity, Rapid Cure, Replaces Tapes & Pipe Dopes - 50 ml, 1 Pack

Works as advertised. Will buy again. Loctite makes great products.

Exactly what I needed for my transmission plug after a fluid change. Great stuff.

i'm a 4th generation pipe fitter--they put an oxy Acetylene torch in my hand when i was still in grade school. every uncle cousin nephew me father etc all journeyman welders was put to work on a sprinkler system joining abs plastic pipe in first grade with the two part glue making sure my cuts were straight and square deburred and properly roughed up--because leaks are bad--but they're extra bad when they are 8 inches underground discovered after the entire system is up and running etc so whether its brass or stainless or brazing or soldering or plastic pipe or pipes large enough to drive a golf cart through designed to pump black gold through it.... i have some pretty good experience joining pipe without leaks kk so i meet my nemesis--3/8 and 3/4 NPT fittings pipes from a 5 horsepower compressor through my little "mini shop" in my garage at home to work everything from air tools for car and motorcycle maintenance to dust collection for my woodworking, auxiliary tanks to maintain a high enough CFM so i don't burn out the compressor by overworking the duty cycle.... plenty of drainage ports... desiccant where it should be... oilers where they should be (and nowhere near or in the path used for squirting paint) et cetra. i'm so pleased w my tiny but well thought out and designed little shop--i can built and paint anything from motorcycles and guitars to fine furniture and even bake a whole car in the clean room after putting down my favorite two stage glossy black (the hardest color to get down right in one try--bar none) i've got lockouts and manifolds to steer the air through the whole system or one subsystem at a time--fault tolerance built in w check valves in case heaven forbid something happens and that way the entire system doesn't depressurize blah blah... i sure like building things... even got an engineering degree in manufacturing engineering bc i thought it was fun.... (the family business is to build factories, plants... big industrial stuff w thousands of FTEs and all the political grief and shenanigans you only see in movies) so how hard can this itty bitty "hobby project" be ?? instead of stealing from my own company and getting a BOM and filling it w the mcmaster carr account i used stuff i ordered off amazon and paid for it myself (frankly if i'd gone "industrial" on this project it would have been rad but then my bed would end up in the garage too lol) poor QA/QC fittings made in third world countries were the bane of my existence--i found leak after leak time and time again--i'm a pro so i used the ptfe tape and assembled w confidence, checking gauges got my soapy water bottle out looking for leaks, fully expecting a double fist arms above my head (only bc nobody was looking--i'd never do such a dorky thing in front of other humans lol... well sure i would, but it would be an "ironic" claim bc claiming is just dorky...) much to my dismay leaks so loud i can hear them singing--i was expecting to lose maybe a fraction or a psi per day and find out about it in the middle of the night when i heard the compressor start to cycle bc somebody forgot to turn it off and an itty bitty leak dropped it down below the trigger to run the compressor cycle again--and even THOSE kinds of leaks are unacceptable to me--whether i have to use dye and a uv light or bust out the infrared goggle thingies.... whatever it takes--my stuff doesn't leak... not even a little bit so again i am beside myself when on first startup there are half a dozen leaks that are so bad they are whistling i take them apart, these are brass fittings in some places and stainless in others but i disassemble, scrub w brushes, degrease and wash in acetone... check for burs, inspect for all the things... and reassemble w the utmost of care :/ i'll skip to the end--after discovering that the tolerances on many of these parts simply would not permit a seal using nothing but tape and pressure i started using a variety or different types of pipe dope... using that term as a "catchall generic to cover any and all type of sealant, hardening, non-hardening, anaerobic what-have-you... expensive stuff... inexpensive stuff... but all of it was using a product that would permit disassembly and/or repair. i read a review for something i bought on amazon for this project by this retired engineer who said "i gave up and used JB weld epoxy--i know its wrong in every way, i'm just hoping i'll be dead and gone by the time it fails" - it was a funny review but i think that guy was only "half joking" :/ kk so the punchline... after trying a dozen or so diff kinds of pipe dope--some w 5 day cure periods that purport to be "permanent" and can only be disassembled w 600f degrees heat (?!) no matter how much confidence i have in my heat shields and heat sinks, i'm NOT risking burning my place to the ground lol i won't recount every product i tried--in fact i didn't even test many of the ones i bought this loctite 565 when used w the primer/activator has worked on *everything* i've used it on from 3/4 NPT to 1/2 to 1/4 all the way down to 1/8 NPT some of you will note that the activator is grossly overpriced and is mostly acetone i made the same mistake thinking that, too. acetone cleans the part but acetone is NOT the activator ingredient--not for this product or any of the permatex equivalents--its thats "something else" that functions as the catalyst for the chemical bonding process. of the various types of pipe dope out there. cure time varies widely... depending on all kinds of things--temperature, humidity, what materials you're joining and whats going through it? water? oil? high pressure steam? 200 PSI air? 3000 PSI air? for my home shop using pressures mostly below 220 PSI (and sometimes far, far lower for paint guns or whatnot) but i have one filler for the kids paintball gun stuff and THAT one goes to 3,000.... in any event, for the entire project, i used either plain PTFE tape (what we used to call "teflon tape" or where i found leaks i skipped the tape and just used the activator and this product and gave it 24 hours before using it and i don't want to hex myself but i haven't had even one leak using that method. i *have* had leaks when i tried to run pressure through it immediately after assembly (well not IMMEDIATELY but ~5 minutes or so) CAVEAT: you should be aware that this product isn't just "magic goo" that will let you ignore common sense and join pipes that aren't meant to go together, for example. you still have to do your job note that i've read many people use tape AND this pipe dope but thats not what i did--just the primer/activator whatever they call it and the dope NOTE: when i had leaks in threaded parts that clearly had threads that were not to spec i used a tap and re-cut the threads. i encountered a surprising number of parts i ordered right here off of amazon that had threads cut in them that were (?!) mystery pitch--i'm not referring to the difference between the brittish standard and NPT--i'm talking just straight mystery... for instance more than one regulator i bought had the usual threaded hole for inlet and threaded hole for outlet and a threaded hole labeled 1/8 NPT for a gauge--the regulator was a good quality all steel construction and wasn't some six dollar garbage so i was surprised when i tried to put my own gauge in the 1/8 NPT place where the gauge was supposed to be mounted. i checked the cheap-o gauge supplied w the regulator and sure enough it fit just fine... so i tried my calipers and a 1/8 npt die on it and sure enough... it was not 1/8 NPT... and i never did figure out what pitch they used for it.... luckily it was SMALLER than 1/8 NPT so i was able to drill and tap and use my own high quality gauge but i had to re-tap and re-cut threads w a die in EVERY SINGLE fitting tha initially leaked--so was it this pipe dope that saved the day? (shrug) all i know is i just bought three more bottles "just in case" i find myself needing it in the future psssss (whispering) don't tell the other pipe fitters i used pipe dope on my home air compressor system--they're gonna laugh at me 🤣 the instructions say that the pro for squirting paint made in china 1/4 NPT fittings

I use this stuff on a lot of fittings for oil lines, hydraulic fittings, and fuel return lines and so far I havent had an issue. Been pretty happy with a lot of loctite stuff so this is kinda what I expect from them at this point.

Sealant used for antique car fuel line connections that always leaked before. No leakage now! Sealant does not harden, except in threads, so directions say, so easy to remove fittings in future. I actually did remove fitting two weeks later - came apart easily with tools. reassembly was easy - no hardened sealant to remove. Sealant can be smear-y - so do not use excess on your connection. excess wipes off.

This thread sealant does exactly what it is designed to do. This type of product is great for oil plugs on motorcycles and similar oily environments. My only problem is, there is so little product in that big tube! It is a little deceptive. I will consider a different brand when this runs out.

Great product when doing rear oil changes

I will never use Teflon tape again. I will always use this product instead! I've used it on my plumbing hardware, and it works perfectly. But even better, I used it on my air compressor fittings, and not one bit of air leakage from any of them! I'm going to order another tube because I don't dare run out. I will never go back to Teflon tape again.

I couldn't find that product in stores and auto parts near me. Might be overkill for my fuel systeme but better safe then sorry. Loctite is a brand you can trust.

This works well for my hydraulic connectors. Nonleaks

‘Nuff said :)

Had leaks in my threaded joints. They are gone after using the product.

A great automotive alternative to wrapping tape on threads. I used it on the threads of driveline fill & drain plugs that experience high temperature