LED Strip Lights Warm White 3000K, 12V 16.4ft, UL Listed | 600 LEDs, 300Lm/ft, CRI90+, IP30, High Density, Dimmable Tape Lighting for Home Kitchen Cabinet, Power Source Not Included

When we first decided to install these under-cabinet light strips, I came to Amazon and purchased one of the inexpensive HitLights Standard Density Light Strips . The install was pretty easy; but, it just wasn't bright enough - even on the brightest setting. Honestly, the dimming option was almost wasted on those standard density strips. At that point, I went back to the drawing board and discovered these double density strips - which has turned out to be an excellent choice! The brightness range is far greater than the single density strips. Since I went through the install twice, here are some things I learned: 1) There are lots of options for using a DC dimmer with these lights; but, since I wanted to use an AC dimmer switch, I ended up using the HitLights Dimmable LED Light Strip Driver . The reason I wanted an AC dimmer is so I could hook this up to a Lutron Caseta dimmer switch . That switch, together with the Lutron Smart Bridge , allows me to program these under-counter lights to turn on automatically at sunset. A couple of hours later, they automatically dim so they don't seem too bright when we're watching TV. Honestly, the remote control options make these light strips really cool! 2) It's not obvious from the product page; but, if you're going to hook multiple strips together, be sure to use the HitLights High Density Connectors . They ship in 4 packs - and the standard density connectors won't work very well with these strips. The connectors are great for going around corners because these strips can be cut every couple of inches and then reconnected to go easily around corners. 3) On my first attempt, I just used the adhesive to attach these strips; but, it works far better to use aluminum channels. The lights stay put better with the channels and the installation looks better as well. A plastic light diffuser also comes with many of the channels that makes the light spread out better - and minimizes reflection off the counter tops. The only downside to using the channels is the additional cost. :) At the end of the day, these lights are excellent! If you're looking for flexible under-counter lighting that looks great, look no further than these light strips!

These are nice and bright and when spread out provides a nice even shade of light under the cabinets. The color is probably more a cool white like a fluorescent however, not the warm yellow of an incandescent bulb but still nice none the less. A great price compared to other lights I have seen. I previously had some puck lights with bulbs that kept burning out & were difficult to replace. Sooooo glad I made the change, and what a difference! I used the HitLights connectors to link all the cut strips. Instead of cutting between the strip pads as the directions indicated, I cut right next to the LED leaving 4 pads to slide into the connector, thus making a good connection every time. You possibly sacrifice 3 LED's unless you don't need to daisy chain the next the strip to be used. You don't damage the LED when you cut next to it....just have to plan the next strip on the role to be an end point or sacrifice 3 LED's. Also, make sure that you slide the strip into the small channel on the connector and not overlay it. You may have to use a tiny screw driver to pry the strip end up over the connector pads. The double backed tape on the LED strip is useless. As recommended by other users, I purchased some good 3M double backed tape and it worked like a charm. I also used the HitLIghts 60 Watt Driver and Ecoxotics 60W Inline Dimmer. The dimmer was supposed to handle 5 amps, so why do they use small gauge wire??? Looks like 24-26 gauge. I have not used the dimmer much as I like the look of the LED's at their full bright state. I plugged the driver into Tresco's 120V capacitive On/Off touch pad mounted under a cabinet next to the LED strip, so I use that as my on-off switch. Power supply and dimmer are all hidden under my sink with just the LED strips & touch pad exposed under cabinet. With the 60W driver, I have room to expand the LED lights above the kick plate! My installation was perhaps easier as I was able to utilize some of my existing wiring from my puck lights. Could not have done that had I chosen the RGB multi-color LED's which requires 4 wires from the driver instead of the 2 wire for the mono color light set. I like these so much that I changed my review to 5 stars! I am truly enjoying these lights!

After remodeling my kitchen, I wanted to update from halogen under-cabinet lights to LED's. I have never used LED's before so I did some research locally and on-line on LED's. In the past, I used self-contained halogen lights which were wired in series. Each light fixture had it's own power transformer and I hard wired these lights to 110v. Well, technology has improved quite a bit and I took the plunge on these LED lights. I purchased the HitLights 3,000K LEDs, along with one of their 12v power converters. I also purchased aluminum channels with diffuser covers on Amazon for mounting purposes. I used the 3,000K LEDs since they matched the color tone of my overhead LED lights. The results were spectacular. LED's are noise free and heat-free and give off a beautiful, natural light. The more I researched LED's the more willing I was to give the HitLights brand a try. HitLights has a great website which provides good instructions on how to select and install LEDs. Their prices are very reasonable too. I found that LED prices vary quite a bit depending upon who you purchase them from. Local lighting stores priced their LED's by the foot and were much more expensive than the HitLights. HitLights also had a much wider variety of widths and color tones. After looking at a number of manufacturers lights, it almost appears as though these LED are almost generic. It would not surprise me to learn that all the LED's I looked at, regardless of brand, were manufactured in the same Chinese factory, they are so similar. Anyway, I was very happy with the HitLights and would purchase them again.

Overall, these are a very good product, and at this price a great value. I replaced T5 fluorescent lights both above and below cabinets in my home office, using these LED's and driver/transformers from Eversale. Some things to note: * While they don't produce as many lumens per foot as the fluorescents, they are effectively at least as bright. Since fluorescent tubes radiate 360 degrees, much of their light is wasted shining on the fixture. LED's radiate in an arc of about 120 degrees - perfect for washing a wall or desktop with light. * The very yellow color in some of the pictures of an illuminated roll is actually due to the caramel color of the tape itself. The light is much whiter when it's unrolled and not shining through the tape. A nice warm, but not overly yellow or green color. * These are "double density" - twice as many LED's per foot as the more usual 300 LED strips. Gives you more light, but the downside is the connectors made for such strips don't work, since the LED's are spaced too closely together. Edit: While I didn't realize it at the time, turns out you *can* use connectors on these double density strips - see the comment below by "Kowalski". If you need to jump over a longer space or for some other reasons a connector won't work, you're stuck with soldering wires to connect the pieces - a task that requires skill and a steady hand. * Re soldering: The solder pads are covered with a protective material that must be scraped off before they will "wet". * Re polarity: There are lots of negative reviews for LED strip connectors (again, these don't work on this product as discussed above,) complaining about the fact that sometimes the positive/negative polarity is "wrong". Think about it: If when standing beside the strip, positive is away from you and negative is nearer you, then the left end of the strip will have positive on the left, and the right end will have positive on the right. Not the connector's fault, just simple geometry. Same applies of course if you solder wires rather than use a connector. * If you do need to create a jumper to connect two pieces, turn a corner, etc. 20 gauge stranded wire (Radio Shack) is about the biggest you can actually solder to the tiny little pads. I've computed the voltage drop for this wire, and it's a few tens of millivolts for a several-foot run, so no worse than the tape itself. * There are many Chinese companies that make combination aluminum track and polycarbonate covers for LED strip lights. I thought these would be expensive, and looked hard for an all-plastic solution. When I actually priced them though, the aluminum track was cheaper per foot than the plastic cover! Haven't pulled the trigger on this yet - my lights are affixed with masking tape so far. Please comment on this if you've used any of the mounting systems. Hope this is helpful!

There are a lot of LED tape lights options on Amazon, many of which are cheap Chinese brands that use sub-par LEDs or have low LED density. I previously was using a cheaper LE brand tape strip and the difference of the HitLights in comparison is night and day. This tape has basically double the LED density as cheaper tape lights, so in the same amount of length, you get a lot of light output. Also, I find the color quality is really good with these (using the 3000K version). I installed these in aluminum channel with a frosted lens for use as under cabinet lighting and the high density of LEDs makes the lights look very uniform under the lens instead of pixelated LEDs. Another benefit of this tape is that it is cuttable every 1”, which gives you better flexibility to cut it to the exact length you need. Many cheaper tape lights are cuttable every 3” in length. I’ve only been using these for 4 days or so, but so far, I’m glad I spent the extra money to upgrade to this tape light.

I bought this product to finish off my new wet bar. I absolutely love the lighting. I can make it very bright or turn it down to a beautiful soft glow. The quality of the lights are amazing. The installation is so simple. There is adhesive back works really well as long as you follow the directions. Their customer service is amazing! I contacted them several times for help and to Exchange for a longer link. You have to know what products you need to go along with your HitLights. Eric was the young man that helped me and he was wonderful. I felt like I got to know him personally. When I called or emailed, he got back to me right away. If he was not available, someone contacted me. I cannot say enough about this product. I am so very pleased.

I made a special light for my electronics bench out of this. Used an aluminum panel, carefully cleaned, and cut the lights into 2-foot strips. Genuine 3M adhesive sticks like crazy. Soldered 28 ga wires to the little pads at then end of each strip. (Be sure not to overheat; get in and out quick.) With nearly the entire roll deployed on my 24x6 inch sheet, it made a BLAZING bright bench light. I measured the brightness with my Minolta light meter at 18 inches and got 2200 Lux vs 320 Lux from a single 20 W fluorescent. Decent color temperature, not yellow, and also not that rude 6000K blue either. They run just perceptibly warm. Power consumption confirmed, 3.4 A for 15 ft total. Worked out great.

After a year of usage, the lights have began going out. They are now pulsating and won’t stay fully lit. They were easy to install and the warmth was right but I am now having to find another option for my kitchen under cabinet lights