Instant Install 29-20 oz Epoxy Permanent Repair Kit - Granite, Marble, Porcelain, Quartz, & Tile - Chips/Cracks - Rebonds/Rebuilds Missing Pieces - Dry in 29 Minutes - Tintable with EZ-Tint

I'm surprised there are so many negative reviews - this stuff is insanely good. There were two giant chunks of countertop broken when I bought my house. The previous owner was a terrible DIYer, and used silicone to glue them back in. They were near the sink, and eventually lost their adhesion and worked their way loose. Now, I am also a DIYer, and have never even attempted anything like this before, but I at least do my due diligence enough to have found this product (and to know not to use silicone to repair granite!). You can see the before and after in my pics, and the after came out way better than even I could have hoped. Even in person it's barely noticeable, you have to really, really look. And part of the repair included building up a missing chunk, so you know this is pretty incredible stuff. Here are my tips.. Buy a bunch of small samples to test your countertop color, I just searched "Mica Powder for Epoxy Resin" and a ton of options came up. This set of 24 had the color "Black Sea" that matched my green countertop almost perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759DH4ZG. I bought a few others and just returned the ones that didn't look right in person - it's sometimes hard to tell from a screen. The nice thing is that these little packs go a long way - you really don't need a lot of pigment at all to get your color. I still have about 95% of the color packet left over after my repair. Use more than one color; I marbled mine with a black dye that I had on hand. Clean your working area thoroughly, I used TSP, and test fit the pieces before you install them. Seem obvious, but still needs to be said. Test test test. I can't stress this one enough. It will help you get color and the mixture right, and give you more confidence working with it. Because it hardens so quickly, it really doesn't add on much time to do a few tests to get your color and consistency right. And it will give you a feel for your timing. I used my Echo to set a 1 minute timer to mix, a 5 minute working time, and then another 5 minute second-half working timer as a sort of warning to myself - and I could feel it start to get harder towards the end to the point where it becomes unworkable. Then just clean up the excess, mask it up with Frog tape, and leave it for the remaining time. Don't let it over-dry! I did that the first time and it got too hard - it flaked off with the razor instead of easily peeling off, and it pulled out the repair from my crevices. I found just following their directions exactly produced the best results (go figure). And don't be afraid to mess up. I tested it out a few times on some smaller less noticeable areas of my sink and found the color wasn't right, or the repair had other issues. I worked those out in the smaller places before tackling the big repair. I ended up pulling some of those out, it's pretty forgiving stuff until it really cures. Also, it seems to work better on deeper cracks where it has something to bite into. Go slow and steady with the razor when you're done, and if you mess it up, it's fine. You can just rebuild. I had to rebuild the small missing gap a few times before I finally got it to where I was satisfied. I know it seems like all this testing takes forever, but trust me it doesn't. I was done in an hour or so, and couldn't be happier. The end result far exceeded any expectations I had going into this, but I followed the directions exactly, did my research, experimented, and took my time on the final repair. If I can do it, literally anyone can. This stuff works.

I had a chip on the edge of my black granite countertop. I was very apprehensive about using the product, but to my surprise it was not difficult, and the result was amazing! Color matching was easy, cleanup was easy. It helped that I watched some videos online. When it first dried, I thought it was going to stay "rubbery" but the next morning the filler had hardened, and I was able to lightly sand it to match the original finish. No one but I would ever know the chip was there. I am extremely pleased with the result. This saved me a couple hundred dollars from having the granite people out to repair it.

Used for a marble end table that was knocked over and cracked right on a vein. I bonded the stone back together with C.A. glue then used this epoxy to fill in after mixing in the white powder. It took multiple passes to fill since it was such a deep crack. It's not perfect, but will work for my needs and is much better than the replacement cost of a table. Tip: use the included clear plastic to tape down and hold the material in place on vertical surfaces! My kit came basically half-hardened in both containers. Also the coloring powder had a leaks in it which made a mess like printer toner spills, but I had enough usable material for what I needed. The after picture is about a month after repairing and you can tell the epoxy is starting to yellow along the edges of the seams. Results might be better with darker colors where you cant see the yellowing. It's a cheap fix to an ugly problem if you are patient with it.

My home has terrazzo floors that for 20+ years were covered with carpet that was in place when I bought the home. I decided to go back to the terrazzo and up the carpet came. I was extremely careful removing the tack strips so as not to damage the surface. However, to my dismay, I found a number of large and deep (1" X 1/2" or so) chunks missing in the doorways. All I can imagine is that at some earlier time someone had pulled out threshold nails and really done some serious damage. Next step? Call a couple of terrazzo repair/refinishing companies to get quotes. Following step? Bathe my face in cool water after reading the quotes. Both companies wanted upwards of $500 for the repairs. Further, they would not guarantee the color match. Third step? Google on terrazzo DIY. I found very little of use. The most amusing recommendation was to fill the holes with concrete and paint faux terrazzo stones on the surface with acrylic paint. Yeah, like that was going to work right in a doorway. I found several stone repair kits online but all were intended for marble or granite with minor chips, scratches, gouges, and open seams. They weren't cheap and the amount of material they included was so small that I'd have to have bought a dozen or so of them. Then I located this "29 Minute Epoxy." It was available as the bulk product or in a little kit containing a few tongue blades, some vinyl gloves, and some razor blades. Those cheap little items greatly increased the price and I had them at home, anyway, so I just bought the jars of resin and hardener. In one afternoon, I repaired all the holes. I must say that the repairs are not invisible if one goes looking for them but they are 99% improved compared to where I began. Here's my advice if you want to try this: First, clean the holes very, very thoroughly. They are likely to be black with accumulated dirt and grime. Use hot, soapy water and a toothbrush. You may need to use a dental pick or something of that sort to get out the tenacious bits, then back to the toothbrush. When you have removed all the dirt that will come out, swab the inside of the hole with undiluted household bleach. This will decolorize stains that are organic in nature. Dry the holes thoroughly with a heat gun or a hair dryer. This will leave you with holes that are the color of the concrete (or epoxy, if yours is a newer floor) with bits of the color chips visible. This cleaning process is the most tedious and time-consuming part of the job. Second, Put on disposable gloves and mix the resin and hardener in equal parts in a small paper cup. I used plastic spoons to remove the material from the jars. Be careful to use two spoons and don't get them mixed up. Mix the two parts VERY thoroughly. Unmixed bits will not harden but will leave you with a sticky mess. Fill the holes, leaving a slight excess so that the mass of the epoxy is a bit above the surface. Resist the temptation to use a putty knife or some such to level it off. Now go read a book or watch a football game for half an hour. When you return, the epoxy will be hard. It is clear and you will be able to see the concrete and stone bits through the mass of material. Last step, using a single-edge razor blade held perpendicular to the surface, SCRAPE the epoxy down until it is flush with the surface. Do not try to save time by attempting to shave or plane it off with the blade. Just patiently scrape until you have a flush, perfectly smooth finish. You're done. If you finish your floor to a high polish, you will want to buff the surface of the patch with some very fine steel wool before applying the floor finish. If you do not go for the mirrored floor look, then look across the patch so that light reflects off the floor and buff with steel wool until the surface of the patch matches the surface of the floor. Let me repeat, this will not be a perfect repair. You'll be surprised, however, at how well the concrete showing through the transparent epoxy fools the eye. In my case, it cost me less than one tenth the price of the not-guaranteed professional repair. This is a quality product, easy to use and does just what the manufacturer claims. Highly recommended. Next

This was my first experience with Instant Install 29 (or any epoxy resin for that matter) and was used to repair two pieces of bull-nosed edging on a granite countertop island. I have a background in general building repair and maintenance as well as finish carpentry and cabinetry but had never worked with stone prior to this. Having never used epoxy or worked on granite, I did considerable research before finally settling on Instant Install 29. My research led me to instructional videos that convinced me this was the product I wanted. I ordered Instant Install 29 from Epox-Sci. Labs Mfr. Rep. through Amazon Prime. The product arrived in short order, was well packaged and as described. COUNTERTOP REPAIR I planned the work project in advance and used a written checklist. I followed my checklist throughout the process as follows: Prepare area by removing all non-project related items. 1) Lay out plastic garbage bags and newspaper to protect all surfaces (including the hardwood floor from anticipated epoxy drip due to clamp squeeze-out); 2) Prior to application, lay out your tools (including a disposable plastic tray and wooden stick to mix the epoxy, disposable gloves and razor blade scraper for clean-up). 3) Tear and pre-stage 3" Painter's tape on the countertop to hold edge pieces once they are epoxied and set in place. 4) Put on Nitrile gloves. 5) Mix product. (You have a very generous 15 minute working window to apply the epoxy to your surface, fit the piece in place and clamp/stabilize it). 5) Apply epoxy to trim edges. 6) Mate surfaces and adjust as needed. 7) Affix pre-staged Painter's tape to edge surfaces to hold pieces in place. 8) Apply bar clamps for good measure. Do NOT over tighten! 9) Remove and dispose gloves. 10) Wait the 29 minutes as required (In my case I waited an hour). 11) Remove clamps and tape. 12) Remove excess epoxy with razor scraper per directions.13) Clean-up and discard waste items. (SEE ATTACHED VIDEO FOR DEMO OF ENTIRE REPAIR PROCESS). NOTE: Each jar of Instant Install 29 has a fitted inner cover beneath the cap. You will get gooey handling these covers. Glove up before you open the jars. Also, be prepared for the product odor. It's not the best thing you will ever smell... YMMV TWO IMPORTANT NOTES: 1) Resist the temptation to wipe or otherwise clean-up Instant Install 29 until it has set. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter on application and clean-up. Once the 29 minutes set time has passed, razor blade clean-up is a breeze. Do not attempt to remove/wipe or otherwise clean-up the product before it sets or you will have a sticky mess that is much more difficult to deal with on clean-up. 2) Do not procrastinate on your clean-up/trimming. After 24 hours the product will be harder than stone and take serious effort to remove. 02/04/19 I have now used this product twice. The attached video captures the second repair. I did not use the Painter's tape during the second repair. YMMV but I do recommend the tape and will use it again if ever needed. The actual repair could not have been easier and I will be ordering this again if I ever need to do a granite repair.

This is nothing more than two-part epoxy that I could pick up at a hardware or retail store. There are fine powers for color that can be mixed in which is its only benefit. The directions state to "remove the thin film" from the surface of the hardener." Both hardener and resin had at at least 1/3 of its contents dried at the surface, so much of the product that I received was unusable. Mixing was fine; just take equal amounts out of each jar and mix on a scrap of paper or cardboard and add the colored power. Unfortunately, this product is too thick for small thin cracks but might work ok it fill in chips. Dries in 30 to 45 minutes where you can scrap the excess off. For the price, I could just purchase two-part epoxy and do the same job.

When first opening the black colored epoxy component lid it appeared the product had prematurely dried. Although the black lid was tight and the two-part epoxy package was shrink-wrapped, the epoxy had dried out at approximately 20% of the material near the top of the container. Fortunately, I was able to puncture through the cured material to access the unharmed product below. On the other hand, the epoxy material in the red lid container had not dried out. The product worked great but I was unable to use 20% of the material purchased, and it was quite expensive.

I purchased this epoxy product back in April 2022 and again in Dec 2022. Worked great both times. Highly recommend! The first repair was to "clear" fill a crack in a marble floor where the slab under neath cracked. Next job was to filled travertine holes to keep dirt from accumulating. Note the cracks and holes must be completely free of dirt, oil, wax and water. The clear epoxy picks up the color of the marble and travertine and is almost invisible, matching the stone filler used by the factory. The Dec Job was to fill small chips 1/8" to 1/4" in a ceramic tile. The tile was a beige with brown/gray streaks. Since the chipped holes reveled the red/dark brow tile, the color needed to be matched. ordered the EZ-Tint 4 Pack color power pack recommended by the seller to mix with the epoxy. Unfortunately, I could not find a combination with these four color tints to match the tile. I went against the sellers recommendation no to use liquid tints. I bought a liquid tint specifically for epoxy gel coats ( Fasco Epoxies-Beige Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint - 4 oz). To that I added Brown and Black EZ-Tint 4 Pack color power to get the shade I wanted. The critical thinag I learned by experimentation is the liquid color must be mixed into the "RED" Instant 29 material before mixing in the "Black" Instant 29 or the epoxy does not harden. Use only a small amount og liquid colorant to not screw up the epoxy. Note: any moisture, even high humidity prevents or inhibits epoxy from curing properly. I like to clean with MEK. Besides the razor for scraping excess, MEK can remove thin epoxy film in the first hour or two. Always work with small batches. Starts to gum/harden in about 15 minutes at 70F. Do not use gummy epoxy-it wont adhere and smooth properly. If you screw up use MEK to remove the epoxy before it cures. By the way MEK fumes are nasty. I suspect that those buyers who rated the product as poor may not have properly prepared the surface (i.e sand the underlying gel coat or fiberglass on their boat) or had too high of a moisture content on the part or in the air. While the manufacturer did not specify a minimum working temperature, I suggest you have the part you are repairing and air temperature above 60F. A lower temperature may not cause the necessary chemical reaction to harden the epoxy. Follow the instructions for best results.