







🔥 Elevate your 3D printing game with unstoppable heat and precision!
The Ender 3 Hotend All Metal Ceramic Heating Core Upgrade is a high-performance 3D printer hotend compatible with Creality Ender3 series and CR10 models. Featuring an all-metal ceramic heating core, it supports printing temperatures up to 300℃, enabling high-speed, high-temp filament use. Its tri-metal thermal break optimizes heat transfer and stability, while the aluminum alloy bracket with steel screws reduces leakage risk. Designed for easy installation and long-lasting durability, this hotend upgrade is ideal for professionals seeking reliable, precision 3D printing enhancements.


































































| ASIN | B0D2NC8PBF |
| Best Sellers Rank | #113,936 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #1,891 in 3D Printer Accessories |
| Date First Available | April 25, 2024 |
| Item Weight | 3.2 ounces |
| Item model number | HSRQ0128 |
| Manufacturer | xirbbo |
| Package Dimensions | 4.33 x 3.31 x 1.18 inches |
J**A
For Ender 3 Neo and Neo Max Owners
I purchased this item hesitantly after reading the reviews. This review is for those of you with either a Ender 3 Neo or Max Neo. I have a Max Neo and I was able to make this hotend work with very minor workarounds. First the issue with the thermistor wires breaking or coming out of the comnnector. When you recieve the item, before handling it repeatedly, take a good grade of silicone (automotive) and put a small blob on the end of the applicator as shown in the pic. Put the blob on the back side of the connector where the wires enter from the thermistor. Push it in EASY as to not push it to the other side of the connector. Make sure it surrounds and connects both wires and the connector plastic housing on the back side. Then STOP !! Let it sit for 24 hrs to cure. The wires are now supported by the silicone and wont come out of the connector easily !! See pic. Next, reviewers say nozzle is too high. What you need here is a nozzle from a Ankermake M5. Longer than a v6 and shorter than a volcano. I took the heater off the heatbreak (removed the 2 tiny screws), pulled it from the red radiator, unscrewed it 1 (one) turn and reassembled. This puts the longer nozzle further up in the heater. I did not have to move the Touch probe or modify the part cooling fan shroud. Thats how close it was !! All I had to do was adjust my z-offset from -2.65 to -2.85. Of course you have to splice and solder the heater and thermistor wires on original harness. I always use the original wires to keep from pulling covers. Hope this helps !! Update: Been printing non stop for 8 days including multiple all-nighters. No issue with filament sensor !!...Yet
S**H
Neat idea, but Low Quality
Gets hot quickly! However this item doesnt dispelled the heat fast enough and heats the filament too soon causing extrusion issues. The thermistor wires break easily and I couldn't find replacements for the hot end.
C**M
80W? 40W?
Why did you pick this product vs others?: This hotend has been good to me, I just wish there was more documentation on it. Like for example, I only see 80W mentioned one place, and thats a photo in this listing, but running it at the standard 40W and I've had no issues. I have yet to run it to its limit of 300c due to me not installing the direct drive conversion kit I printed, but at ~265c I've had zero Issues. If you guys could get back to me on the above concern, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
E**N
Non-standard threads. Otherwise ok, but not good.
Mechanically, this is a really good hot end compared to a stock lk4 (an ender 3 clone) hot end. The hot end is less prone to temp swings that cause false thermal runaway warnings. For petg, this is awesome, no more melting Bowden tubes. If you want to use flexible filaments, forget about it. The all metal throat of the heat break has a lot of friction, and doesn't allow flexibles to reach the heater block without oil (I tried this with a "direct" drive converted printer, and a Bowden setup neither work dry). The threads on top of the unit are m8x1.0 for some reason, and didn't allow me to use my normal compression fittings, nor my direct drive adapter. Get ready to make custom adapters if you are going to be using anything other than the flimsy Bowden "fittings" they give you in the box.
B**G
Works great.
Much better hotend than I had in my homebrew setup. Took a bit to make up some adaptors to fit they way I wanted. But once that was done, everything else hooked up and worked great. The hotend heating is so much nicer on this unit that the E3d's I normally run. Still dialing it in but for sure no worse than what I had and just some things I like better so even if the print quality is the same as before I will take the pluses. Heat up time is just wow. I guess when your still running 7 year ago rigs and home built ones these new heating elements are insane.
A**E
Failed after a few uses
Junk. Wires broke off after a few uses. Was leery about ceramic hotend but wanted to try anyways. Never again.
A**R
Works great
I swapped over this onto my anycubic kobra go, was tired of the stock hotend, took some modeling to get it to work but was well worth it way more flow and higher quality prints, it would be super simple install on an ender or the like, it's held up well and preforms great, it heats up quick too and keeps a stable temperature after a pid tune, very efficient hotend
B**D
A good all metal hotend
This is a decent alternative to something like the Micro Swiss All metal hotend for a good price. It heats up pretty quickly and flows pretty well too 👍 Edit: After a week of printing succesfully, it started having thermal runaway issues today. Pid tuning, making sure the thermistor is seated correctly, making sure there are no loose wires...nothing seems to be fixing it. I suspect a faulty thermistor since it keeps swinging its temps irregularly. Had it kept going it would have been perfect :(
V**U
I have used it once and it's broken... The thermistor connector was always disconnecting so I soldered it to my cable. Since it was disconnecting the nozzle clogged a lot and in the process of unclogging it, one of the heater wire broke, so it is useless now.
TrustPilot
1天前
2 个月前