Philips 1157RLED Ultinon LED (Red), 2 Pack

If you want led but not crazy bright. These are for you. They are exactly replacement of standard 1157 incandescent brightness. Shop V Leds for something nice and brighter.

Super Bright

*Edit* I took a photo: incandescent on the right, LED on the left. As I say later, subjectively the incandescent is 2-3 times brighter. In sunlight (this wasn't in direct sunlight) I can't even see that the LED is on. Very Dangerous. Very disappointed. I have a '95 Nissan pickup with a bed liner, so bulb changes are a little more involved than without the liner, and I was interested in a bulb that might outlast the truck. Reading the reviews, some mentioned how dim they were, others how bright. I decided to take a chance since my old truck doesn't have any electronics that might interfere with the operation of the LEDs. They're very dim, and possibly dangerous. I'm sorry I didn't get a picture with an incandescent in one side and a LED in the other but I was so disgusted and ticked off that I didn't think of it. I did take the time to jumper directly to the bulb to make sure that it wasn't some wiring issue but that made no difference; still very dim. How dim? Barely visible in daylight. Subjectively, without a light meter, I'd say less than half as bright as the incandescent. Dim and spendy; $20 for the pair of LEDs vs $7 for a pack of 10 incandescent (I have multiple vehicles to maintain). I can't recommend these at all.

I purchased these bulbs to replace a set of Philips Zevo LED bulbs whose park lamp brightness always seemed too dim. These are very nice, and not so bright that they look strange on a classic car. The color is a nice amber and these seem like very good alternatives to standard incandescent bulbs. I would buy them again.

Good LED bulb, the problem I incoutered was that the glass part at the end with the contacts is longer that a standard 1157 and hits the bottom of the socket before the two pins on the side can engage with the notches. I pushed and twisted the the plastic part that contains the LEDs (which is the only part you can grasp while installing the bulb), using reasonable force, the plastic part containing the LEDs spun while the metal part that goes in the socket, did not spin, which broke the connection in the bulb, rendering the bulb useless. At first I though the two metal alloy bumps that are the contacts on the end that make connection in the socket were too thick, so I filed them down, that was not the problem, as the contacts in the socket on the vehicle are spring loaded, the problem was the glass insulater that the contacts are on is longer and hits the bottom of the socket before the pins on the side are deep enough in the socket to allow engagement. I had to push the bulb into the socket extremely hard (I believe the plastic stop at the bottom of the tail light socket had to be compressed), before the pins would engage.

My 2015 Genesis 3.8 has a notorious flaw that the DRLs and front blinker are the same bulb. The bulb from the dealer is the 1157A. Most aftermarket bulbs require some rewiring and modifications. I was surprised after installing. When I first installed them the DRL function did not work but the blinker did albeit with hyper flashing which I can live with. HOWEVER, after driving it the first time I noticed in the reflection in the car in front of me the DRLs were WORKING! Not kidding. Thrilled this actually worked!

No brighter than a regular bulb.

As part of upgrading the 1953 chevy to 12 volts all bulbs needed to be replaced, I decided to upgrade them to LEDs and I'm glad I did. I had to fille one of the legs of the bulb to fit, other wise it worked just like a regular bulb.