J-B Weld ClearWeld Syringe 25mL

I recently used this product to set steel rods into newel posts for an interior railing. I needed something that would set very strong given the safety implications of my project, and JB Weld fit the bill perfectly. I have some more rods to set, so finding a cheaper price on Amazon vs. the big box hardware stores was great. Working time / setting time: I saw several reviews say this takes 10-15 minutes or more. I had the exact opposite experience. Mine became tacky and gummy so quickly (3-4 minutes) that I had to get my items glued with hustle. I worked in small batches using little paper cups after losing a relatively large first batch to the quick drying. It's dry where I live, so maybe humidity comes into play and could explain the large variance between reviewers. I'm not sure when my items were fully set, as I didn't want to test them too early and damage the initial bond. Adhesion / strength: I glued steel into wood and steel into MDF, and both bonds are holding extremely strong. I had to remove one of the rods to fix some paint and it was quite difficult to get out - exactly what I was looking for. I initially used some classic gray JB Weld, which I think is potentially a bit stronger (just my objective feel, not sure if that's true), but I didn't want any gray to leak or show on my railing. The clear is holding plenty strong for my purposes. Don't expect JB Weld to replace real welding, however. It's still surface adhesion, so it has its limits. There are some great videos online showing you how strong this stuff really is when tested for torque, shear weight, etc. Clarity: Dries very clear, no issues whatsoever. The gray was making a mess on the white newels for my railing, but the clear is nearly invisible. I can see tiny spots where I spilled if I look closely, and they're easy to chip off with a razor.

I ordered some new headlights for my truck, and I noticed there was a little clamp missing, so they were damaged in transit. Instead of exchanging them (which the dealership offered), I figured I'd keep them and seal the area where the damage occurred. I did get reimbursed for shipment. I just put those funds towards purchasing this epoxy. So when it arrived, I figured out that I'd have to mix it. Had I known beforehand, I may have not purchased this... because I can get lazy. But it did come with a nice little stick (popsicle free) to help with mixing. I used a plastic cup and cut the topmost portions of it off, pumped this stuff on down into the top-chopped cup, and mixed it with the little stick for about a minute as directed. Oh, wait a minute... that was in my dream. Unfortunately, I used a cotton swab (QTip) to mix it, and not the stick... and it adhered to the swab quicker than expected, started to look like wet cotton candy, and was less fluid in less than a minute. The cotton was begging for mercy. Word of advice... DON'T MIX WITH A QTIP! I should've just used it for application only. =( However... I didn't require that much of the epoxy. I applied 2 or so 'coats'. It went on with a hue of clear to slightly tinted, and it began to dry within the minute. It truly covered the gaps on both of those headlights, and I'm no longer worried about any condensation getting into my new headlights. I went back hours later, and it blended in like someone just took clear plastic and 'inconsistently' smoothed it out over the headlight assembly. LOL!!! Great product! Very, very stinky (even after taping it back up inside the box), but great product. I bought two boxes, but I haven't even finished the first of the initial twin pack. Glad to have these in my arsenal, thanks to advice from my brother. 5 Stars. Hoping this helps you in making your purchase. Take care and have a wonderful, blessed day!! (= Z.

I've used JB Weld's ClearWeld for years, and it's never failed me. I've yet to find anything I could not fix with it. I've repaired and glued together: ceramics, plastics, wood panels, metal brackets, rubber, cloth and fibrous materials. I've also attached many of those items to one another with ClearWeld. Is there any material ClearWeld won't stick together? Maybe, but I have yet to have that happen. The most recent item I repaired were my eyeglasses. The left-side hinge had broken and there was no way to replace it — short of buying another set of frames. To fix them, I applied a thin layer of ClearWeld and held the frame hinge and its temple (the arm) together for a couple of minutes. After it setup, I let it sit for a few hours. When I came back, I was surprised to see that I could flex the eyeglasses without the frames separating at the hinge point. A $6 tube of ClearWeld, saved me the cost of a new set of frames. What Issues Does It Have? 1. If you used too much, it takes a longer to cure. 2. It does smell a bit. However, the smell doesn't bother me. 3. A few customers have had the syringes leak during shipping. I've never had that happen. 4. A few times, I've had more of the two-part epoxy come out of one side of the syringe than the other. It usually happens with a new syringe because one side binds up a bit as you're pushing on the handle. If that happens to you, just scrape away the excess to keep the mix ratio at 1 to 1. For me, ClearWeld has always dried hard. It's not rubbery when mixed properly. HINTS: A 45 degree, counter-clockwise turn and pull on the gray knob opens the syringe. CAUTION: Sometimes, the epoxy will be under some pressure, due to heat, (if it's summer time) and some of it might ooze out of the syringe — so be prepared to catch the excess with a paper towel. If you're going to be doing a big job and using lots of ClearWeld, do it outside. As the smell can be irritating to some people. Plus, the smell sticks around a lot longer. Do not over apply ClearWeld — use just enough to get the job done. ClearWeld bonds and works best when it's applied in a thin layer. That's what I did when I recently attached four hard rubber feet to the casing of a 2000 watt inverter. The aluminum housing had been anodized, and I wasn't sure if ClearWeld would bond the feet to the smooth surface. But it did! (I thought about drilling holes into the casing to mount the feet but didn't want to risk damaging the inverter.) After applying ClearWeld, I put some lead weights on the feet and let them dry overnight. The next day, I tried but was unable to pull any of them off with my fingers. ClearWeld is my go-to cure for fixing anything that's broken, has come apart or that I want to stick together. I highly recommend it.

Some things about this epoxy glue make it distinct from other quick set epoxies I've used... But it does work pretty well especially for some use cases. First, the cap. It has a GREAT cap if you can remember which orientation to put it back on as, because if you get it backwards, then you'll glue the cap to the syringe! So, twist the cap open, then BEFORE pulling it off, with a sharpie mark a line on the cap that continues on to the syringe. Then you'll never have to guess the cap orientation - just line up your lines. Second, the set texture. My end result is firm but a little rubbery. This seems like potentially a good thing for ceramic especially. Third, the set time. Maybe I have an odd batch? But I was expecting it to set in 5 minutes, and it didn't. This was a problem because I didn't have a clue how long to hold my piece. Needs 10 to 15 minutes. It just starts getting tacky at 10 to 12 minutes for me after thorough mixing. What I learned is... using a piece of cardboard and a toothpick... * Squirt some out on the cardboard. * Mix it for 3 minutes. You have to really mix it very well. * Apply to both sides of your piece thinly, but don't press them together * Keep mixing the leftover. When it starts to get tacky.... however long that is (it might be 10 to 12 mins) * Press the sides together and hold gently for an additional 5 minutes. * Sing a song while you do this to help not get bored out of your mind while you hold! Fourth - adjustment! Because it takes a long time to cure, it's still soft and pliable 20 minutes after it sets. THIS IS A HUGE ADVANTAGE if you think about it, because if you have several pieces to glue together, e.g. a handle for a mug, you can work on the remaining pieces and there's some flexibility if you didn't get the joint exactly right for the glued joints to bend a bit while setting the next segment. Lastly - cure time - it *really* needs 48 hours. Not 24. Don't get tempted to use too soon! I haven't yet tested for diswasherability or mircro-waveableness. I'd not use it for a food-contact bowl on the inside. Who knows what it's made of (except of course good ol' J.B.)

This is a pretty damn great product. I don’t always understand what plastics that some of JB weld stuff works on, and what plastic they don’t, but this said that it works on pretty much every plastic so I went with that. I honestly think some of their other products would’ve worked on this type of plastic as well, but it seems better not to risk it. It seemed to have worked very well on the carafe that broke on my ninja blender. Those car are damn expensive. Let me tell you. And they do often break. It seems. This is my friend‘s second one on my second one as well that has broken

Great epoxy! Arrived quickly and packaged well! Easy to follow instructions! Easy to apply! Seems to be very strong!

Worked very well to fix a broken ceramic tea pot cap's knob. The mix starts thickening and hardening within 3-5 minutes so the pieces have to be positioned quickly. I will be using this to fix my car's rear bumper split. I have sanded it, but seems like I can smooth out the results to make the excess disappear from the surface.

I frequently need to attach metal hardware to wood, and of all the epoxy products I've tried so far this has been my favorite. The bond is incredibly strong. I haven't done any stress/failure tests, but I've yet to have anything separate. I also appreciate having 5 minutes of set time; there are quicker options out there, but when I use those I find myself stressing out about how much time I need to spend mixing, there is less time to get your parts aligned, and you don't have as much time for adhering multiple work-pieces from a single batch. I find that this product has just the right balance of setting quickly enough that you can get back to work in 30-45 minutes, but you have enough time to make sure everything is in the right position before it gets to gummy. When it's about 60°F in my garage, I find that I have about 8 minutes of total work time before the epoxy becomes unworkable. The replaceable cap does a really good job of sealing both reservoirs and preventing curing at the tips (just make sure to back off the syringe slightly before replacing the cap so it isn't pressurized). The packaging comes with a small popsicle stick and theres a concave section in the front cover for mixing; I always use a folded piece of aluminum foil and a lollipop stick for mixing since I do all my projects in a well-stocked garage, but this would be a handy option if you didn't have other supplies available. Some reviewers have commented that they have issues with bubbles, and although I never have this problem, I know why it can occur. If you are mixing the epoxy in a very warm (80°F+) environment / in direct sunlight, it will froth a bit and introduce small bubbles; when possible do the mixing in a cooler environment in the shade. Your mixing technique can also introduce larger bubbles; it should be mixed like drywall mud on a hawk, not like eggs being beaten in a bowl. If you constantly lift your stir stick and push it back down into the epoxy, you will force air into it and create large bubbles that are nearly impossible to get rid of. Instead, constantly keep the tip of your stir stick in contact with your mixing vessel stirring in tight circles; when the epoxy becomes too spread out, use the side of your stir stick to squeegee it back to the middle, then twist the stick to clean off the excess, and resume mixing. 2 or 3 cycles of "mix > re-consolidate > clean stir stick" should produce perfectly mixed epoxy free of bubbles.