120 Wood Carving Knife

This knife is an excellent all-around carving knife, and should be a part of any artists or wood carvers tool set. Unlike most knives, all Mora knives arrive carving sharp right out of the box. That said, you WILL need to learn to sharpen it eventually. If you give it a few passes on a strop each time you put it away, you could go a long time before needing to sharpen ( the inside of a cardboard cereal or cracker box makes a great strop). The knife is Swedish, not Swiss as some seem to think, and the laminated steel holds a very keen edge. The blade has a flat "Scandi-grind", meaning there is no micro-bevel at the knife's edge, which makes for a very sharp blade that is easy to maintain. The one thing I find lacking is the sheath, which, incidentally, is the same plastic sheath Mora uses for all of their classic, red-handled knives, which occupy the same niche that Stanley Box-Cutters occupy here in the States: It's a construction/tradesman's knife. As such, It's a perfectly functional and utilitarian sheath that's friction-fit, vaguely ugly and cheap-looking, and it is what it is, I guess. This is one reason the knives are as inexpensive as they are. It'll keep your blade and fingers safe and allow you to transport the knife easily, but it's a one-size-fits-all Mora sheath that won't win any beauty contests. I love the handle, the natural wood grain provides just enough texture and the wide belly gives you something to grip. As for the lack of any kind of finger guard, well, I suppose we'd all be safer if we all wore helmets 24/7. The simple fact is, unless you are going to be making lots of stabbing motions with the knife, you shouldn't need a guard. My kitchen is FULL of sharp knives that have no guard. I imagine yours is as well. Do you cut yourself much? Me Neither. On a carving knife, a finger guard just gets in the way, limiting the kinds of cuts you can make. If you must, you can buy an incredibly overpriced "carving glove" which makes holding the wood or your knife difficult, or, just grab an old leather glove out of the garage and cut the thumb off of it and wear that on the thumb of your knife-holding hand, which is where the real danger is anyway. Mora is a great knife, and is often the first brand of knife that allows folks to see firsthand what a good knife can be; It's not flashy or expensive like the modern tacti-cool B.S. out there, and it's simple, understated design is deceptively lithe and comfortably "full" in the hand. It is also very lightweight. As for maintenance, this knife is sharper out-of-the-box than any new knife I've ever personally handled. In fact, it come out-of-the-box sharper than most any knife I have ever personally sharpened. However, even here there is room for improvement: Go buy a stick of either white or green porter-cable buffing compound for $2 bucks ( one stick should last you 20+ years), and make a strop out of the inside of an old cereal box ( YouTube this if you are unsure). Stropping is the key to maintaining a screaming-sharp, carving-ready edge, and this quick and easy process should only take 30 seconds or so after each carving session. When I started carving, I discovered that stropping, on a scale of 1-10, brought my blades sharpness from a 9 to an 11 If you strop your blade regularly, say, 10 passes on each side of the blade after every other carving session, you could potentially go months or years before needing to sharpen with a stone. Again, an excellent knife.

This is probably the best value wood carving knife to begin with. Great handle size and blade length and definitely a step up from the basic beavercraft ones. Comes super sharp and ready to go.

This comes extremely sharp but not well seated in the sheath. Be very careful when opening, people have gotten hurt just doing that due to the knife just falling out of the sheath. It will fit snug so I am not sure why it isn’t packaged as such. I whittle and bought this knife for that purpose but to be honest it is so sharp it makes me nervous, I will not use without cut resistant gloves. Outside of my filleting knife, which this reminds me of, this is the sharpest knife I have ever owned.

Great carving knife easy to sharpen and comfortable handle.

Better than the 106 i recived awhile back...by that i mean quaility of the blad apperance...the 106 had to mang dings from bad formation of the laminated steel plus rusted spots😞..oddly it feels heavyier than the 106..but its very sharp and i did notice a ding on the tip and has a rounded tip😶..still ill keep it cuz it looks real nice overall. Used it today on some wood, carving and feathersticks..works great but i feel as if the 106 is better than this 120. Some say the 106 is to big but i dont think so..i think the 120 feel stuby but it dose have more controle when doing close up work...if i had to pick one..it would be the 106 for sure...carful this knife is super sharp and watch out it can easy fall out of the sheath if not careful.

Great sloyd knife. The gold standard for beginners and professionals. Easy to customize, great value, durable edge, and razor sharp. The "sheath" is a throw away, but it will protect the knife until you make a better option.

Great multipurpose wood carving knife. Very comfortable handle and the edge/blade shape is perfect.

Awesome knife for Wood Carving. I love it's big handle which gives me a good grip. The blade is sharp and tough. It can easily slice through Basswood. The scandi grind is great as you can use the tip of the knife for small details and hog off lots of wood with the tough length of the knife. It is a longer blade than the "usual" 1.5" blades which are very popular in Woodcarving. However that's no problem for me as I've been taking on larger projects.