Universal Car Door Lock Vehicle Keyless Entry System Auto Remote Central Kit with Control Box

This is a great product IF: 1. You already have power locks and want to add keyless entry 2. You are comfortable pulling your car apart and cutting and splicing wires 3. You can use a multimeter for testing to figure out your wiring The instructions included are not great and do not detail things very well. I've installed car stereos and have a basic understanding of electrical wiring, but had to do a bunch of digging online to figure out exactly what I needed to do to install this unit. One thing they could better outline is how to identify if your car has a positive or negative locking system. I found out by taking my door panel off and using my multimeter to test the wires going to the lock button. Beyond that, the hardest part is locating the proper wires for installation, which of course varies by vehicle, so no getting around that. I recommend using an add-a-fuse for the 12v power (make sure to use a fuse that provides power when the car is off). I skipped wiring the horn in but I did connect the blinkers so they flash when the buttons are pressed by running some auto wire up to the hazard light switch. Worked like a charm and is easier than digging for the right wires that went to all the lights over by the fuses. Once installed, it works great. Range is pretty good and the fob is nice. If you're handy and have a couple hours to poke around with your car, this is a very cheap way to add keyless entry to a car that doesn't have it.

I honestly can’t believe how well this system works for the price. I installed it in my Honda Fit, and everything functions as it should—lock, unlock, and even the car finder. Super happy with it! The range is solid, and setup wasn’t too bad if you're comfortable with wiring. It’s a huge upgrade for an older car without breaking the bank. Highly recommend if you want keyless entry without spending a fortune!

Easy to install and works! I only hooked up the locks and the flashing of the parking lights, not the horn or the trunk. The range isn't great, maybe 20', a little better if you put the remote under your chin. I'm wondering if can extend the range with a different remote or a longer antenna wire

Awsome product for price.. Intructions seem complicated if you dont know how to read wire diagrams.. But while my package was in route i did research on how to wire it.. And once i found out how it took maybe 20 min to install.. After you figure it out you realize the intructions really are simple to follow. If your car already has a central locking system. You take both orange wires and the black ground wire and splice all 3 together with the ground wire on your vehicle. Both yellow wires go with the red positive wire into a power wire on your car. And the white wires you wire into the close and open wires on the door lock.. I couldnt find my hazard wiring so i couldnt wire the brown wires into the hazard lights which sucks but oh well.. Works great. Also the range on the keyfobs is far. about 200 feet. I like the blue led.. as i put this in my overhead console where my original IR unit was it fit perfectly where the old IR lense was and lights up the inside of ny Jeep when it flashes. I dont have an alarm as this Jeep is a classic but it does make it seem like i have one. So hopefully it helps keep theifs away for 15$ lol this is a steal. The wiring is alluminum.. So extra cheap lol. Installed this in my 1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer

Easy installation on 2001 tundra and works as it should. After installing this device, the device with draw all the power from the battery if not started within a week. Before installing this, the truck could be left in the garage for a month+ and start right up. They prob use cheap parts, hence the low price

Instructions seem unclear at first glance, but becomes simple once you identify how your locking system works. The module is small enough to be ziptied behind your dash's kick panel for a hidden install. It definitely feels cheaper overall than an OEM counterpart but that's to be expected when you're paying essentially nothing for something that is known to work well. Range is about 20 ft, which is more than enough for most. Remotes have a recessed portion for labels or stickers. For my USDM 2007 Honda Fit, the door locks work by shorting one of two pins to ground (thereby making it a negative system). To install in a Fit, just take your cover off the door (underside of the armrest only), and find the wires going to the switch. Next, pop off the plastic panel on the rocker, the specific panel being the one encompassing the hood release lever. There will be a connector underneath. Match the colors of the window lock rocker switch wires to the ones on the connector, using a multimeter to verify it. The larger black wire on the connector is NOT ground, rather this would be the smaller little black wire in the middle (again, you want to check with a multimeter to verify you have the right one). Simply connect the wires to the module using the provided instructions and it will work greatly.

Update: this unit hasn’t even lasted a year. Changed to 1 star. Reached out to seller to inform them of the longevity issue and got a “thanks for the feedback” reply. I’d spend more on a more robust unit with better customer service. I gave this 5 stars because it works, and works well. With that said, there are some negatives. The instructions are basically trash. It gives you the options for electrical or pneumatic and then gives you “directions” for either +/- pole signals, if you’re adding motors and central locking systems but they are vague. I put this in my 1999 F150 with factory power locks. I am pretty savvy when it comes to wiring but this thing frustrated the hell out of me. My truck has a central locking system. Push the button on the drivers door, both locks respond. I used their diagram. 12v constant and ground are easy, if you can’t figure those two out, stop. I pulled the lock panel and used my tester to find the lock/unlock wires. Disconnected the button during install and T tapped em. Wired up the rest of the unit and hit the buttons on the fob, success! Locked and unlocked perfectly. Hooked the button back up and tested both the door button and fob again, “click” and then nothing. No power to the door switch. Ok, fuse blew for the switch, opened the hood and put a new fuse in. Used the fob, locks cycled. Hit the button, “click”, switch is dead. Fuse blew again, Houston, we have a problem. Broken wire? Let’s check. I checked all the wires, they’re good. Everything tight and connected. Disconnect the door switch and try the fob, locks cycle?! Reconnect the switch, fuse blows again?! Then I notice the white signal wires are hot, trace em back the Ficbox unit and they’re starting to melt. Something isn’t quite right. Put another fuse in and disconnect the installed wires, reconnect the switch, switch is now dead, she’s fried. I pour over the instructions, watch multiple install videos and nothing is making sense. Frustrated but not deterred, I get a new switch from Oriellys and order another Ficbocx unit. While I’m waiting for the new unit I start researching the writing diagrams for my truck and study the switch and it’s functions and how it operates within the workings of the entire locking system. New unit arrives, time to get to work. Now, I’ll skip the process and steps I took to get to the wiring harness I needed to get to (dash and parking brake removal) as every vehicle is different. The skinny. With all my research I found out that my truck has a 5 wire reverse polarity system. The instructions with the unit do not cover this. So if you have a 1998-2003 F150, these instructions are for you. There is no need to go into the door, the wires can be accessed on either side where the wire harness goes to the door. Again, I picked drivers side and it was a pain to access but allowed me to neatly hide and install the unit. Black wire to a ground Red fused link and BOTH yellows to a constant 12v source (I soldered these together) *Remember above, if this part confuses you, stop. This is literally the basics to electrical systems* My signal wires are pink/green and pink/yellow cut these wires. (These are also the wires I tapped in the door, don’t 😉) One side of the cut wires will have voltage when the unlock/lock button in the door is pushed. The other side will have nothing. These wires will be referred to as switch side (power present when door switch is pushed) and motor side. LOCK ORANGE=Switch side WHITE=Motor side UNLOCK ORANGE/BLACK=Switch side WHITE/BLACK=Motor side Wired everything up, connected new door switch and BOOM! Functioning button and unit. No issues (blown fuses/melting wires). Put the truck back together, secured the Ficbox unit and wires nice a neat, and we’re rocking and rolling. The unit works well. FOB range seems decent. I obviously can’t attest to longevity or durability yet but for the price, it’s a good little unit. Yes, the instructions a pretty much trash and don’t cover every system type but that’s what you get when you spend $14 for something that would cost $100 for a basic “known” brand. Take your time, think through it, and you’ll be happy to have the luxury of keyless entry.

I wanted to added remote entry to my 80's GM Project Car... It has factory power locks and remote hatch release so for the price, and features this unit seemed to fit my needs. I looked at other products and wanted a key fob that had a separate button for the hatch/trunk so I settled on this unit... Installed in a 1983 Camaro.. First get a service manual for your vehicle (cheap from Ebay). It'll tell you what wires to hook up, where they are, etc. As the top review stated - toss out the instructions... They are about useless. Hook the red power led up to a constant 12v source. Black wire is ground. Find a good, clean, ground. Don't simply tap into an existing ground. Brown wire, this is for the parking lights... only one is used for my Camaro. Hooked into the corresponding Brown Wire (found in the service manual) under the drivers' side of dash by the C100 harness. Door Looks... GM uses POSITIVE looks (at least in the 80s). So when you move the factory lock switch (Lock/Unlock) voltages flows through the factory switch... So on this unit you connect the yellow and yellow/black wire together, and then connect this to a constant 12 volt source (not switched, or only hot when the ignition is on). You might want to add an inline fuse too (30 amp). Don't get lazy and use crimp connectors, wire tape, etc. Solder the connections, use heat shrink tape and wires ties to make strong reliable connections. Then the white and the white/black get spliced one of the existing lock switches. White/Black is to open the lock. White is to close the lock. On the 80's Camaro - the factory relays are located on the drivers' side, behind the kick panel, under the dash.. Easy to get to, and this is where I tapped into the factory harness. The Blue wire in the factory harness is open, so the White was added here. The Black wire in the factory harness is unlock White/Back was added here. Don't cut the harness - simply strip back some insulation and then wrap the new wires around the exposed wires, solder, tape, and then wire tie! You will thank me for doing the job correctly later.. That will get your doors to lock/unlock and parking lights to flash.. The hatch? well this is where the product or at least the unit I have sucks! The Blue wire is a negative signal, and GM used a positive signal to open. I even emailed the seller and the confirmed... So I had to ad a relay... I keep them in stock.. So back under the dash... Grab a 30 amp relay, flip it over and the tabs are labeled.. 87 is the output tab to the hatch release. 86 and 30 are wired together (again use good wire techniques) and these both go to a constant 12 volt source. I also added a 30 amp inline fuse too. 85 is the trigger - so the blue wire from the unit gets hooked up here. Once that is all wired up - you should be able to open the hatch/trunk. For Camaros the hatch wire is a single connector also under the drivers' side dash by the fuse panel. The wire runs down right by the power door lock relays.. NOW - maybe my unit is defective? BUT AFTER ALL THAT, NO HATCH RELEASE!!! I was soo frustrated! I double and triple checked my wiring... STILL NOT WORKING. I even swapped relays... NOTHING.. THEN I simply grounded tab 85 with the relay install, and the hatch/trunk worked. So I knew it was the unit itself...and not my install. So the reviews about faulty trunk release features is true... At least with my unit.. Over all the product works. You need to have specific knowledge of your vehicle, added parts, use of correct wiring techniques, and most important PAITENCE! I did not contact the seller to ask for a replacement... since they are listed out of stock. Eventually I might revisit this and see if I can get a replacement unit? Good luck guys and gals with your install adventure! ****Update to the Trunk Relase Saga!**** Customer Support comes through again... I contacted them regarding the trunk release issue.. They stated please hold the trunk release button down for 3 seconds.. The instructions never mentioned this? (as we all know the instructions leave a lot to the imagination). So back out the garage, hit the trunk button on the keyfob and started counting... One Mississippi, Two Mississippi, Three Mississippi.... Click, and the hatch pops opens! Hell Yes! In a world of instant gratification, I expected the trunk to open immediately (after my parking lights flashed)... Nope Patience is needed... Overall for a pretty good little control box to bring my 80s model Camaro into the 1990s... Yes you need an extra relay, as well as some electrical essentials to hook it up. Don't expect a plug and play install... And for all of you that keep asking; "will it work on..." You would need to do your own research... and this unit does is send basic signals.. Get the factory service manual and figure it out!